Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:49:25 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
In-Reply-To: <1d1b01c891dd$74d18ff0$6401a8c0@DJZL7KF1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252
A little more... I just went out and pulled the right-side injector pair and
I can't get anything out of them after spinning the engine a few times.
Jim
On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:42 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> That part of the distributor is notorious for intermittent connection –
> it's delicate.
>
> I
>
>
>
> Sure , if you are asking does this fit the symptom of poor idle – the
> answer is yes.
>
> But that's not a diagnosis and 50 other things could also cause the same
> symptom.
>
>
>
> Scott
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* Jim Felder [mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 29, 2008 1:25 PM
> *To:* Scott Daniel - Shazam
> *Cc:* vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> *Subject:* Re: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
>
>
>
> I just went out and popped the distributor cap off. I discovered that the
> hall effect sensor (if that's what the plastic thing at the rear is) is
> cracked loose at its base. Put the distributor back together and started the
> car and wiggled the set of wires going to the sensor with a pair of
> insulated pliers. The idle improved, but only somewhat.
>
>
>
> Is this a plausible reason for the poor running? I checked it because I
> was going over every connection disconnected and reconnected for this
> project.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
> On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> It's a manual transmission. I'm sure the plugs are fine, and it runs fine
> for a short time, and when it starts dropping idle I only have five or maybe
> ten seconds before it shuts off.
>
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 29, 2008 at 2:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> You have to say manual or automatic transmission if you are going to talk
> about how the throttle cable feels.
>
> There's no way to mix up the injector wires. The ECU fires them as one big
> injector, all 4 at once. They are not sequential, or even timed. The only
> thing the ECU does is keep them open so many milliseconds depending on
> fuel
> requirements.
>
> Just pull one plug wire at a time to look for obviously not firing
> cylinders.
> I'll go over my method on adjusting hydraulic valve lifters if you want.
> Scott
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Felder
> Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 12:39 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Heads back on, runs OK and dies
>
> Got the right head on this morning, hooked everything up and it started
> right up, at least from the sounds of the initial idle.
> It is powerless, though, and it feels as though the throttle is connected
> to
> the accelerator by a long, soft rubber band, meaning that there is a
> strong
> lag behind pressing the accelerator and the rev of the engine.
>
> The engine may (or may not) idle nicely for a while, and then the rpms
> fall
> and the engine quits.
>
> I know the spark plugs are going to the right place. Could I have the
> injectors swapped? Could the new, unprimed lifters be doing it? My
> experience with setting valves on cars tells me that it couldn't be this
> far
> out by making a mistake in the valve timing, or could I be wrong about
> that?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
> --
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