Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 14:06:34 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Message to Newbies
In-Reply-To: <139401c8a56d$5eb5f320$6401a8c0@DJZL7KF1>
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I agree with all you say. I just hit the high spots that I feel are
crucial to a good and safe start. After that - it's like a marriage - a
lifetime commitment! :-)
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Scott Daniel - Shazam wrote:
> What about :
>
> Lubing the shift linkage.
> Cleaning out the forward white plastic tube in the van that the throttle
> cable slides in, and lubing that nicely.
> Lube ever last hinge and latch and key lock cylinder in the whole van.
> Treating all plastic and rubber with your favorite restorer fluid.
> Treating the windows with Rain-x
>
> And I could go on and on.
> When I get a 'new old van' - I have to immiediatly do about 200 things to
> it.
> Who lubes seat belt latches after all ? no body, ever, that's who.
> Not that I've seen.
>
> What about :
> Touching up surface rust spots.
> Treating and stopping all rust spots, including severe body cancer rust.
> Checking the spare tire pressure.
> Checking all external lights.
> Treating all electrical contacts is the whole van.
>
> If I listed all the things I do to a vanagon , or that 20 year old vanagons
> could use 0 - it would be a few pages of things to
> check/service/lube/restore etc.
>
> But yeah, those are some of the major basics.
> What about checking the front suspension for play and wear ?
> What about cleaning the screen for the power steering fluid in the PS
> reservoir ?
> What about changing the PS fluid ?
> It goes on and on.
> Fill the washer fluid res- etc.
> There are dozens and dozens of little service items to do on a 20+ year old
> vanagon that no one has ever done. What happens to any mechanism that never
> gets serviced in any way ?
> It wears out or breaks.
> How about arm rests on front seats - those need lubing and tighten, etc.
> It does go on and on if you REALLY want to make the entire van as smoothly
> operating as could be. Very rewarding to do too. Lubrication in the right
> places is a wonderful thing.
> Scott
> Turbovans
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> John Rodgers
> Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 6:53 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Message to Newbies
>
> It seems we are getting a few new Vanagon owners aboard so here's my
> occasional post to newcomers about their vans.
>
> *Fuel Lines*:
> If you don't know the history of your vehicle, you need to change the
> fuel hoses in the engine bay RIGHT NOW. - without delay, preferably
> before you drive it again. Fires have destroyed more of these vans that
> I ever want to recount. The youngest Vanagons (last year sold in US -
> 1991) are now 18 years of age. Fuel injection hoses rot over time. They
> are high pressure hoses, and the least little hole or crack sends fuel
> spraying everywhere. All it takes is a little heat or a single spark and
> you will watch your pride an joy burn to a crisp. *DON'T PUT THIS
> OFF!!!* Our list vendors carry a kit to take care of this problem.
>
> *Oil Filters:
> *Mann or Mahle Oil filters seem to do the best job in keeping the
> rattlety-clackety of the infamous Vanagon Lifter Syndrome at bay. This
> is a condition where the lifters leak down and on start-up the lifter
> rattle and clack as if they are totally out of adjustment - and they are
> until the lifters pump back up. The Mann/Mahle filters seem to hold the
> pressure in the oil galleries of the engine better than most filters,
> and consequently the oil does not leak out of the lifters when the
> engine is at rest. This leak down doesn't really hurt anything
> immediately, but it is aggravating, and over time could cause some
> excessive wear, but usually - if driven - the lifters will pump back up
> within a few miles.
>
> *Oil:
> *Except in really cold climates, 20W50WT dino oil is best. For a
> synthetic oil, many - as do I - prefer Mobil One 15W50 Synthetic. These
> oil help the filter in leeping the valve lifter clatter at bay.
>
> *Oil Filler Tube:*
> The filler tube for the oil - located under the Vehicle Tag rear hatch
> door that folds down.- has a built in extension tube. Just grasp the rim
> of the oil filler tube and pull and the tube will extend out to ease
> filling with oil. When done filling just push it back in and put the cap
> back on.
>
> *Manual Transmission: *
> Though other oils are used, the manual tranny appears to live better/
> shift better on Redline MT 90 Synthetic Transmission Oil. I switched
> over to Redline some years ago to solve a stiff shifting issue. I have
> used it ever since. I recommend changing out the oil every two years,
> and flushing the wear metals and trash from the transmission when the
> oil is changed.
>
> *Auto Tranny:*
> Never had one, so maybe some of the other folks can step in here with
> recommendations.
>
> *Brakes:*
> If you have not already done this, flush your brake lines completely
> with new brake fluid. You will be amazed at how much WATER will come out
> of the lines, not to mention other debris. This needs doing every two
> years. Refill ONLY with DOT 4 brake fluid. DOT 4 has a higher heat
> rating than the others, and it is needed for the heat of braking that
> occurs in the Vanagon. While doing this, check the front brake lines,
> both the flex and the rigid lines for wear. Sometimes rubbing and
> chafing occurs and you would not want a hole to appear while driving a
> mountain road.
>
> Inspect the front brake pads and linings while you are doing this
> brake system work. It would be a good time to inspect and re-pack the
> wheel bearings as well.
>
> **Note** - bigger brakes, as well as rear disk brakes can be installed
> if you change to a 15 ro 16 in rim size.
>
> *Power Steering*:
> Flush the power steering system and use only ATF Dextron II DO NOT EVER
> allow conventional power steering fluid to ever be used in the system.
> It will damage the pump and the seals. Remember ATF Dextron II only!
>
> *Coolant:*
> Taking good care of the cooling system is extremely important because of
> the head corrosion problems the WBX engines have. If the vehicle is new
> to you, as soon as is reasonably possible, have the cooling system
> drained, flushed and refilled. Use the German blue coolant (best) from
> VW or DexCool Orange non-phosphate biodegradable coolant. This latter is
> what I use and have never had any problems with it. When I refill, I
> always add a bottle of Redline Water-Wetter to the coolant. I change the
> coolant and flush the system, installing new coolant, every two years.
>
> *Constant Velocity Bearings (CV's)*
> These bearings on the rear axles get an enormous amount of activity, yet
> if maintained and serviced well will last near 200,000 miles with no
> problems.
>
> If the vehicle is new to you, get ahead of the game to start with. Pull,
> clean, and inspect the CV assembly. Apply the recommended CV grease,
> install new boots, and re-install on the vehicle. I recommend that you
> install NEW 12 point Porsche bolts to hold the CV's Torque the bolts
> ONLY with a pointer type torque wrench of known proper calibration. You
> don't want these puppies coming loose when you are flying the road.
>
> If you do this job yourself, don't be chincey - spend the money and get
> yourself a decent and proper lock ring plier to remove the CV from the
> axle. If you try and use the ol' screwdriver trick, you may lose the
> lock ring when it flies across the room, or worse, you could lose and
> eye, or someone else might. It ain't worth it.
>
> *OX2 Light:*
> This light comes on when it is time to change the oxygen sensor (O2
> sensor) plugged into the catalytic converter. The light is re=settable,
> and when the mechanic installs a new O2 sensor he sets the light. On the
> earlier vans, the light comes on at 30,000 miles after re-set. On the
> later models, it comes on at 60,000 miles after reset. Don't panic when
> the light comes on. Yo can run for a long time with the light on without
> any adverse effects. The light simply tells you it is time to change the
> O2 sensor. It does nothing more than that. The light IS NOT connected to
> the O2 sensor, but is activated by a counter installed in the
> speedometer operating system. From the left front wheel there is a
> short cable that goes to a box just above the spare tire well. On top of
> the box is a detent. Down in the detent is a "pust to reset" button.
> When the button is pushed with a screwdriver it resets the OX2 warning
> light on the instrument panel by turning it off. When the black box
> counts 30-60,000 miles respectively, the light will turn back on.
> Further regards to that black box- the speedometer cable that goes to
> the speedometer comes out of the back of the black box. So when your
> speedometer stops working, you need to check the short cable from the
> wheel TO the box, as well as the longer cable from the box to the
> speedometer.
>
> *Battery*:*
> *Remove the battery, then clean the terminals, and the terminal cables.
> Use a tool to bring metals contacts to expos4e bright new metal for best
> connection. Clean the outside of the batter with water and Baking soda
> to neutralize any residual acids. Clean, wash and dry the battery box.
> If there is any rust or corrosion, Clean , then paint with POR 14. Next
> paint with Acid resistant paint. Then apply a topical rubber coating
> over that. Now your battery box should never give you problems. Be sure
> the battery box vent is open. re-install the battery.
> *********************
>
> OK, that is enough said about the basics. Hope I didn't miss anything.
> If so, maybe other's wiser than I will chime in here.
>
> Follow up on these recommendations, and enjoy your ride for a long time
> to come.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
>
>
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