Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:53:28 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Message to Newbies
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
It seems we are getting a few new Vanagon owners aboard so here's my
occasional post to newcomers about their vans.
*Fuel Lines*:
If you don't know the history of your vehicle, you need to change the
fuel hoses in the engine bay RIGHT NOW. - without delay, preferably
before you drive it again. Fires have destroyed more of these vans that
I ever want to recount. The youngest Vanagons (last year sold in US -
1991) are now 18 years of age. Fuel injection hoses rot over time. They
are high pressure hoses, and the least little hole or crack sends fuel
spraying everywhere. All it takes is a little heat or a single spark and
you will watch your pride an joy burn to a crisp. *DON'T PUT THIS
OFF!!!* Our list vendors carry a kit to take care of this problem.
*Oil Filters:
*Mann or Mahle Oil filters seem to do the best job in keeping the
rattlety-clackety of the infamous Vanagon Lifter Syndrome at bay. This
is a condition where the lifters leak down and on start-up the lifter
rattle and clack as if they are totally out of adjustment - and they are
until the lifters pump back up. The Mann/Mahle filters seem to hold the
pressure in the oil galleries of the engine better than most filters,
and consequently the oil does not leak out of the lifters when the
engine is at rest. This leak down doesn't really hurt anything
immediately, but it is aggravating, and over time could cause some
excessive wear, but usually - if driven - the lifters will pump back up
within a few miles.
*Oil:
*Except in really cold climates, 20W50WT dino oil is best. For a
synthetic oil, many - as do I - prefer Mobil One 15W50 Synthetic. These
oil help the filter in leeping the valve lifter clatter at bay.
*Oil Filler Tube:*
The filler tube for the oil - located under the Vehicle Tag rear hatch
door that folds down.- has a built in extension tube. Just grasp the rim
of the oil filler tube and pull and the tube will extend out to ease
filling with oil. When done filling just push it back in and put the cap
back on.
*Manual Transmission: *
Though other oils are used, the manual tranny appears to live better/
shift better on Redline MT 90 Synthetic Transmission Oil. I switched
over to Redline some years ago to solve a stiff shifting issue. I have
used it ever since. I recommend changing out the oil every two years,
and flushing the wear metals and trash from the transmission when the
oil is changed.
*Auto Tranny:*
Never had one, so maybe some of the other folks can step in here with
recommendations.
*Brakes:*
If you have not already done this, flush your brake lines completely
with new brake fluid. You will be amazed at how much WATER will come out
of the lines, not to mention other debris. This needs doing every two
years. Refill ONLY with DOT 4 brake fluid. DOT 4 has a higher heat
rating than the others, and it is needed for the heat of braking that
occurs in the Vanagon. While doing this, check the front brake lines,
both the flex and the rigid lines for wear. Sometimes rubbing and
chafing occurs and you would not want a hole to appear while driving a
mountain road.
Inspect the front brake pads and linings while you are doing this
brake system work. It would be a good time to inspect and re-pack the
wheel bearings as well.
**Note** - bigger brakes, as well as rear disk brakes can be installed
if you change to a 15 ro 16 in rim size.
*Power Steering*:
Flush the power steering system and use only ATF Dextron II DO NOT EVER
allow conventional power steering fluid to ever be used in the system.
It will damage the pump and the seals. Remember ATF Dextron II only!
*Coolant:*
Taking good care of the cooling system is extremely important because of
the head corrosion problems the WBX engines have. If the vehicle is new
to you, as soon as is reasonably possible, have the cooling system
drained, flushed and refilled. Use the German blue coolant (best) from
VW or DexCool Orange non-phosphate biodegradable coolant. This latter is
what I use and have never had any problems with it. When I refill, I
always add a bottle of Redline Water-Wetter to the coolant. I change the
coolant and flush the system, installing new coolant, every two years.
*Constant Velocity Bearings (CV's)*
These bearings on the rear axles get an enormous amount of activity, yet
if maintained and serviced well will last near 200,000 miles with no
problems.
If the vehicle is new to you, get ahead of the game to start with. Pull,
clean, and inspect the CV assembly. Apply the recommended CV grease,
install new boots, and re-install on the vehicle. I recommend that you
install NEW 12 point Porsche bolts to hold the CV's Torque the bolts
ONLY with a pointer type torque wrench of known proper calibration. You
don't want these puppies coming loose when you are flying the road.
If you do this job yourself, don't be chincey - spend the money and get
yourself a decent and proper lock ring plier to remove the CV from the
axle. If you try and use the ol' screwdriver trick, you may lose the
lock ring when it flies across the room, or worse, you could lose and
eye, or someone else might. It ain't worth it.
*OX2 Light:*
This light comes on when it is time to change the oxygen sensor (O2
sensor) plugged into the catalytic converter. The light is re=settable,
and when the mechanic installs a new O2 sensor he sets the light. On the
earlier vans, the light comes on at 30,000 miles after re-set. On the
later models, it comes on at 60,000 miles after reset. Don't panic when
the light comes on. Yo can run for a long time with the light on without
any adverse effects. The light simply tells you it is time to change the
O2 sensor. It does nothing more than that. The light IS NOT connected to
the O2 sensor, but is activated by a counter installed in the
speedometer operating system. From the left front wheel there is a
short cable that goes to a box just above the spare tire well. On top of
the box is a detent. Down in the detent is a "pust to reset" button.
When the button is pushed with a screwdriver it resets the OX2 warning
light on the instrument panel by turning it off. When the black box
counts 30-60,000 miles respectively, the light will turn back on.
Further regards to that black box- the speedometer cable that goes to
the speedometer comes out of the back of the black box. So when your
speedometer stops working, you need to check the short cable from the
wheel TO the box, as well as the longer cable from the box to the
speedometer.
*Battery*:*
*Remove the battery, then clean the terminals, and the terminal cables.
Use a tool to bring metals contacts to expos4e bright new metal for best
connection. Clean the outside of the batter with water and Baking soda
to neutralize any residual acids. Clean, wash and dry the battery box.
If there is any rust or corrosion, Clean , then paint with POR 14. Next
paint with Acid resistant paint. Then apply a topical rubber coating
over that. Now your battery box should never give you problems. Be sure
the battery box vent is open. re-install the battery.
*********************
OK, that is enough said about the basics. Hope I didn't miss anything.
If so, maybe other's wiser than I will chime in here.
Follow up on these recommendations, and enjoy your ride for a long time
to come.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver