Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 14:26:11 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: 1985 Vanagon - engine case stud ? - Must have good answer -
Calling Boston Bob
In-Reply-To: <0e0901c8b372$028196f0$6601a8c0@OFFICE>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Yup, the only 'real repair' is to the bare case,
And the most extreme miracle repair would be to work on the case with the
pistons and barrels removed - and the rods will unbolt too, but don't see
how that would help get any more access.
Don't see how it could be repairable in the van. To get home from mexico -
I guess I'd close up the stud hole in the head with JB weld, and make a
giant clamp over the whole engine, head to head,
Or something crazy like that.
Basically, except for real 're-machining and repair' that case is toast.
The bare case is what really needs to be worked on.
I have core 1.9 waterboxer engines, usable cores.
I spend hours making sure I can get the nuts off without busting the studs
sometimes.
But yours busted off in flight, 'way down in there ' .........not a lot of
hope for an in situ repair, unless..........as stated, the perfect extra
long sharp drill bit, and all the patience in the world.
And metal particles getting around would be a severe issue.
Having the barrels in the way is just absurd.
The pistons and barrels do come off, if you know what you are doing, and
have a special wrist pin extractor tool.
Would only need to do one. Wrist pins for both are extracted from the crank
pully end of the engine. That means if you want to remove a forward piston
and barrel, you remove the aft one first - clever those germans. Right !
1.9's are very smooth running engines when they are really running right ,
( bit rare that though,t - I have to tweak or check 30 things on them, but
when right, they rip. ) - and very long lifed too.
250K on the bottom end.
Heads and had gaskets should really be done every 60 to 80K miles.
Regardless of anything.
I would suspect that corrosion due to not changing the coolant is a
significant factor, if not the factor.
You can not change the coolant too much on a 23 year old or whatever age,
waterboxer engine.
And I add a certain anti-rust and water pump lubricant too.
Hope something works out !
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Bob Donalds
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:19 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 1985 Vanagon - engine case stud ? - Must have good answer -
Calling Boston Bob
Hi Larry
the stud is not Helicoiled into the case. The end of the stud that goes into
the case is larger than the body of the stud and is the same but is longer
than the nut end of the stud The case does not have an insert so it is
threaded into the block itself
So let me see if I have this right 1 top middle stud has broken twice and is
now flush with the case. If I have read this correctly the next problem is
that the drill bit needed to get straight onto the broken stud would need to
be 1 Ft long and very sharp. The cylinders and pistons are also going to get
in the way.
When I have this problem I am typicaly dissaembling the block for rebuilding
and after degreasing I send it to Jerrys Broken Drill and tap Santa Ana Ca
Keep in mind this rot is not confind to1 stud and you might need to replace
all the studs
the bottom line is you cant just drill this out and the stud is very hard.
The location also is a huge problem
I would recomend another engine or engine block .
good luck
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "AAG - Larry Word" <word_aag@COMCAST.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 8:30 AM
Subject: 1985 Vanagon - engine case stud ? - Must have good answer - Calling
Boston Bob
I'm trying to avoid splitting my case/removing my engine in order to remove
an engine stud and R& R that stud which broke while traveling down the road.
The stud (drivers side stud, 2nd top from/toward driver) 1st broke about 1
inch from its end, 2nd brake while extracting at the engine's case - heli
coil into case?
? : Are the factory engine stud "Heli coils" (threads into alum. case that
hold stud into case) install/removed from the exterior side or interior side
of the case?
This may be important as we try our next extraction - I'm not willing to
remove engine and therefore it's "do or die" for this engine/perhaps my
trusted old vanagon.
Pls. advise if you have knowledge of this .....
Have a good day!
Larry
Ga.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008
12:38 PM
