Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2008, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 8 May 2008 22:38:35 -0700
Reply-To:     Don Hanson <dhanson@GORGE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Don Hanson <dhanson@GORGE.NET>
Subject:      DIY alignments
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"

I've done my own alignments very often. It's a bit complex to explain via the computer. I have never aligned a Vanagon, though, only various Porsches.

The main thing about suspension and alignment adjustments is to remember that things are interdependent. The suspension and the alignment are "dynamic" in that the alignment changes as the suspension moves, so your settings are a compromise and they are dependent on factors like vehicle load, tire size, etc. Your other alignment settings also may change as you alter one thing.. For instance, changing your camber will cause the toe and the caster to change some also. Without some research and experience, I won't attempt to advise you on a vanagon's alignment. On my Porsche racer, I changed the alignment often, sometimes two or three times per day, looking for the best combo of tire adhesion (traction).

I use, very briefly, a pair of strings and a 'smart level' to adjust toe and camber. I let the caster alone. A 'smart level' is simply an inexpensive digital carpenters level capable of .00 degrees of accuracy. With a pair of spacer blocks taped onto the level, you can read your vehicles camber by placing the level onto each wheel, with the spacer blocks contacting only the rims. With the strings set up on each side of the vehicle (some racers use fancy fixtures, I used a pair of sawhorses or some jackstands) at an equal distance and parallel to the vehicle centerline, you can read the toe by measuring in from the string to the wheels. I had a nice straight board, about 12" tall and a little longer than the diameter of the tires. I could clamp the board so it contacted the rims and then measure front and rear from the boards to the strings..giving me my toe.. Quick and dirty, you could put a board across each (front or rear) side of the car and measure under from board to board across the vehicle for your total toe.

.On my racecar, I often ran about 1/4" of total toe out on the front...about 1/8" toe in at the rear. I ran about 4.5 degrees negative front camber and about 4 neg at the rear...changing all the settings to maximize the handling for each track as I learned the car's behavior, and the tire temps dictated. I kept logs of my tire temps to help me with which way the wheels were working best...You would strive for the most equal tire temps across the whole 12.5" wide soft slick Goodyear race tire, and fairly equal temps front compared to rear. My "Numbers", since I kept my own logs, didn't make much sense to anyone else or necessarily read "true" but as long as I faithfully repeated the measuring and alignment procedures, I learned how much to change each of MY numbers to create the effect I needed. For example...If my front tires were 40 or 50 degrees hotter on the outside edge and the car was "plowing" or "pushing" after my first session on a new track, I might add 1/2 degree more negative front camber and lower the rear of the car and dial in some more rear wing angle..Then go out and do a few laps and repeat the tire temp readings..Probably (hopefully) finding it much better..

As you can see, a bit complicated, but with some practice, any careful DIY guy should do at least as well as sears or midas...I see by your numbers that Vanagons are speced for lots of caster (makes sense with such a short wheel base and the long boxy shape of the body)..caster is.the amount the contact patch trails behind the steering pivot point of the wheel...You seem to have a bit less than spec and I would guess your van steers a bit more quickly than intended and may track somewhat less well than it could. I plan on checking my caster when I get to it and to put in more than I have now...most likey...to 'slow down' the wandering tendency of my van in side winds...Might help some anyhow..

That probably confuses the he** out of you.. As I said..a bit difficult to explain..easier in real life with everything there to show.. Don Hanson

Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 19:36:19 -0400 From: pickle vanagon <greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM> Subject: DIY alignment? (Also, alignment numbers)

Alignments are the one thing I find myself taking a vanagon to a shop for. I would love to find a way to do a good job at them myself. Does anybody have good "backyard mechanic" ways of doing their alignments?

While I'm at it, let me throw out the numbers that came back from my Sears alignment today, in case anybody wants to comment. They only ended up doing a toe adjustment. I note that several parameters are still out of specified ranges. What should I think about this?

Thanks! Wes '83 1.9l westy


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.