Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 23:54:37 -0700
Reply-To: David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question
In-Reply-To: <002001c8bfb2$a0007e90$0201a8c0@troykv7nw3q4te>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I am no expert in Vanagon brakes. But I did two brake jobs on my two Vanagons
recently. The result of the fist brake job wasn't great. My pedal often passes
1/2 point to kick in. But if I pump the pedal once then it will kick in at the
beginning 1/4 point. I bled the brake twice but no improvement. I had no idea
why.
My 2nd brake job recently was far more successfully. I put in new brake shoes
and cylinders. Adjusted the shoes back and forth to make sure proper tightness.
Then bled the brake once. The result was great. Parking brake level is perfect
and brake pedal is firm and will kick in at the beginning 1/4 depth.
Nothing was done to the front brakes as the pads all looked thick enough. So
one brake job was not good but the other great. The difference I think is in the
adjustment of the brake shoes. I believe it affects the pedal.
Today I did another brake job for a Honda Accord. I put in new brake shoes and
new cylinders. I found that Honda Accord's rear drum brakes have no holes for
adjusting the star wheel. SO there is no way I could adjust the shoes the way I did
on the Vanagon. After bleeding the brake it turns out that the pedal also will only
kick in beyond 1/2 pedal depth. Not good.
Based on these I tend to believe that adjustmnent of the shoes is critical for the
pedal to work right. Again I am no expert. Any comments from experts out there
please?
David
--- Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET> wrote:
> Hi folks:
>
> I'll stop talking about battery woes and move on to a new subject;)
>
> Just finished up installing a new master cylinder on my 89 Westy as well as an Audiovox cruise
> control. Everything went fairly smoothly, and my homemade brake bleeder worked great. It was fun
> to finally get a chance to try it out. Puzzling thing to me is the brakes are now
> grabbing/engaging towards the end of the pedal travel, whereas prior to changing the cylinder
> out they engaged a little bit sooner, but would fade. I've got really good pressure, pedal is
> not spongy, so am I looking at a rear brake adjustment? Just can't figure out why a master
> cylinder would change where the brakes would engage.
>
> From what I recall about adjusting the rear brakes, the star adjuster is turned until the brakes
> just scrape. Someone mentioned then applying the parking brake as well as pumping up the brake
> pedal to center the pads, and then readjusting. Is this the correct procedure? I've only ever
> tried this once.
>
> I like to have the brakes engage at the first third of travel instead of the last third, and I
> believe pedal height comes form the rear brakes adjustment, but would like confirmation of this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Troy
>