Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 21:14:55 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Foss - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Foss - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Road trip and mechanics litany of issues
In-Reply-To: <20080527233418.R96613@bemnet.pair.com>
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well 600 on the front brakes is a 'full pop' front brake job.
that probably coves 2 new rebuilt front calipers, new pads, and discs,
and it sure BETTER include new front brake fluid at least, and proper
greasing and adjusting of the front brakes.
it IS worth that.......
and many people would freak out about doing just one rebuilt front
caliper - they have such a thing about 'must do both sides at once'
.......and of course they could just refuse to do it any other way that
'both sides' completely.
but ...........in a reasonable world there is less than doing every
thing or 'both sides because one side needs it '...........
but my hunch is he wouldn't say............OK I'll just do the one
caliper and if it pulls or anything, you don't get to copplain.
And with pads at 20 % I wouldn't want to see rebuilt caliper/s on pads
that thing - the pistons will be out pretty far .
there is such a thing as new pads on good used discs - but there is
risk. If i ever put new pads on used discs , i tell them , no matter
what happens, if it squeals or pulsates next week, we have to do it all
over.Through away the new bads, and get new pads and new discs.
And many people get away with sneaking new pads onto used discs.
What pad is used matter, what disc brake quiet is put on the back of the
pads matters etc.
btw-- I know one front end and brake shop that machines EVERY disc they
ever see- used ones off the cars, and new ones out of the box befoe they
go on the car.
I talked to another guy who says he NEVER machines any disc- he puts
pads on good discs, and new discs. I tend toward that, but
re-surfacing a thick enough disc is a very viable repair, and cheaper
than new discs.
but that's the high end 'do it all 'price, or it BETTER BE !
On the ball joints, you have to say upper or lower, Uppers are no big
deal at all. Lowers are a nightmare. They can justify a 60 dollar
alignment if they touch a front end part.
THIS IS IMPORTANT.........................SHOPS DO NOT TRY TO SPEND
YOUR MONEY THE BEST WAY................WHAT THEY DO IS LOOK FOR
PROFITABEL REPAIRS THAT THEY CAN JUSTIFY.
that's what this guy is doing.
it's probably ALL HE KNOWS HOW TO DO.
They train for that in the industry.
in case you hadn't guessed i am a profesional with about 35 + years
professional near full time automtive repair and serice
experiexperience- and vanagon specialits.
I might write a book someday about how shops dont' really S E R V E and
look after your best intersts - theyu are LOOKING after THEIR Best
Intersts, not yours , mostly !
So you have a small oil leak at the rear main seal and flywheel area -
if it's not bad, it's not justified to pull out the engine for a small
oil leak or seep.
'runs lean' I 'd ask how he determined that, and what he planed to do
about it.
Does it seem to start, idle and run smoothly ?
YOU don't say which engine you have ........ahem...........i'll assume 2.1.
they can be tricky to get really smooth and right. How old is your
oxygen sensor ?
is your throttle switch adjusted right ? etc.
a leaking front heater valve is a bother to deal with - but might only
get worse, i'd put it on a list for now, unless money is no object.
test the water pump like this - pop off the belt and see if the bearings
are smooth.
2.1 waterboxer water pumps only last about 70K miles anyway, btw.
and they can be a real bitch to deal with in the car.
on the 1.9 ( PLEASE ALWAYS SAY WHAT YEAR MODEL AND ENGINE YOUR VANAGON
IS ..........I DOUBT IT'S A DIESEL......BUT YOU WELL GET MORE HELP IF
YOU JUST SAY YEAR AND VERSION - SYNCRO ? 1.9 OR 2.1 ? Auto trans, etc. )
the water pump on a 1.9 is somewhat easier ,but they have a bad tendency
to corroded w pump housing bolts and they break off
sometimes......something to be very careful about.
a 2.1 water pump job is almost 500 dollars with engien in the van, and a
full complete quality job with a quality part.
And I suspect right now he's not getting german parts for your van.
that should give you an idea.
i'm on that route btw, ........well..........no, at Grants Pass, if you
come down I-5, naturally you cut over to the coast there and go down the
beautiful Smith ( is it ? ) River to the California Coast - a fine, fine
drive. As good as they get.
I'm way too busy anyway to deal with 'more'
hope this helps you,
and please..........if people would just say what engine, what
year........and all that, that sure would help people help them !
Seems rather obvious to me.
You could prbably do your trip just like you are now and it wouldn't be
the end of the world.
I tend to 'masage' things back to health - a bit here, a bit there, say
if it can repsond to pads only..........do that, new breake fluid all
arond, and one rebuilt caliper - for a reasonable person.
I spend most of my time educating, and let them make the choices, within
reason.
I spread the money out that way, and i do it really really carefully. I
also need and only will work with trusting, smart, kind clients.
Upper ball joints are easy, not that expensive,
and don't involve any changes in alignment actually.
a leaking heater vavlve- that's just what they do.
i just did one - up by the radiator up in there - not fun.
bit of a struggle i thought actually. But I've never seen one just blow
out and make a huge leak.
And we won't even mention your head gaskets.
I do not 'over do ' stuff, but frankly............it would actually be
right to pull all waterjoker heads every 80,000 miles and do a nice
valve job on them, and new 'head gaskets' which they don't really have,
not in the conventional sense.
( oh, were' not talking about an air-cooled vanagon here are we !!! ? )
.........
year and model and engine and trans type please, and if 2WD or synncro,
then i can help ya better !
scott
www.turbovans.com
A. Hurley wrote:
> So...I need to drive from Seattle to Aracta, CA and took my van in to a
> mechanic for an oil change, belt change and checkup.
>
> He came back with all this:
>
> Left front brake caliper is sticking, pads worn to 20% ($600?)
>
> Runs lean - needs tune up (adjust the mixture screw?)
>
> Fly seal and galley plug leaking
>
> Front heater valve leaks (not losing much)
>
> Water pump has stain at weep hole
>
> Right ball joint bad, need upper boots
>
>
>
> So...estimate is about $1500, and recommend I don't go to CA Friday....
>
> Any advice or opinions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andree
>
>
>
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Andree Hurley
> Viewit.com - http://viewit.com/
> Kayak Instruction Newsletter -
> http://onwatersports.com/KIX/Newsletters/KayakNewsletterSpring08.html
>
>
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