Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:23:30 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Bypass coolant pipes under van for rear heater
In-Reply-To: <E1K4jrs-00013D-L9@garm.runbox.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-15; format=flowed
re disconnecting the rear heater from the cooling system........
Just plugging the hoses to it with smooth shanked bolts ( the threaded
parts will leak ) is not that good an idea for a permanent repair since
most Vanagons have plastic T junctions for the rear heater connections-
and being 20 + years old, those plastic ^T junctions will just
disentigrate in your hands if you touch them.........or they might
just break on a trip somewhere........or on a date with you in your nice
closth .......
It's far better to remove the T junctions under the van and replace them
with metal barbed hose junctions or something equally effective and well
made.
scott
www.turbovans.com
M'obeechi wrote:
> Removing that rear stock heater is an excellent idea - when it leaks it soaks your carpet and the cork-whatever underneath it, then when its cold and damp, water is pulled into your cork-whatever and the carpet, until you clean those things out at a car wash on a hot summer day.
>
> However, I think its better to more the ecu to the hatch area, on the passenger side (the wall), then you can place large batteries on either side under the rear seat, and place a large propex in the center (in an isolated box) and a large inverter can be placed above the propex (a double layer really thin ply, maybe with foam between the plys, should be used to separate the inverter from the propex). This is the only way to have two heavy batteries with balanced load.
>
> Sent: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:27:55 +0000
> From: John Reynolds <kayakjr@COMCAST.NET>
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Bypass coolant pipes under van for rear heater
>
>
>> Goes by the inside diameter, so a 5/8 diameter shoulder, or 5/8 bolt or rod will do it. I was on the fence whether to remove my rear heater after it leaked, but I want the room, don't use the van in winter and didn't want to spend the $100.00 or so to make it all right (new valve, core, etc)
>>
>> I plan to take the individual wires out of the 4-wire connector, push them through the floor and then seal them with heat shrink tubing or similar. It's posibble to extend the wiring to something like a closet light or interior light, or water pump if I put a water tank in (I have a weekender) that I can shut off from using the rear blower control on the dash.
>>
>> On my weekender, the panel under the froont of the seat tilts backward - I might replace this with a straight up and down wood one to gain some more rear room.
>>
>> With a family of 4, there is not enough storage space!
>>
>> John
>>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>> From: Taeke <taeke.t@gmail.com>
>>
>>
>>> Batteries are going where the core is so.... Replacing sounds good, happen to
>>> know what size to buy? Goes by inside diameter correct ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I used two stainless stell bolts that had an unthreaded shoulder under the head.
>>> I cut the threads off, a nd ground the end witha slight taper to make insertion
>>> easy. SNIP
>>>
>>>
>
> ----- End Original Message -----
>
>
>
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