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Date:         Thu, 19 Jun 2008 18:42:54 -0400
Reply-To:     Eric Ley <eric_ley@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Eric Ley <eric_ley@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: AC High Side - line leak - rubber hose
In-Reply-To:  <vanagon%2008061913041550@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

Very good explanation especially about the expansion valves. Except up here in Quebec Canada we vacuum the system, then do a leak test on the system with nitrogen we pressurize the system with about 250 psi and wait 15-30 min with a gauge on it. If it leaks then we go around with a bottle of soapy (Palmolive) water to check for leaks it's the law here now. There is a actual flush compound it is pricey not sure about the mineral spirits but if it works for you and you get good results ....

-------------------------------------------------- From: "Roger Sisler" <rogersisler2000@YAHOO.COM> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:54 PM To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Subject: Re: AC High Side - line leak - rubber hose

> Keith, new compressors have a shelf life of 18 months and then they may > start to leak from the shaft seal.You may need to charge in a can each > spring. If you are switching over to 134a, it is best to get a matching > expansion valve for 134a. Not hard to do as valves specifically for R12 > don't exist anymore-except for NOS parts(and you don't want one of these). > A > place called Vintage Air, in Texas, may have these R12 valves. > > SIDE TRACKED A BIT HERE-- The R-12 valves failed in R12 Vanagons of > 1983.5-1985 vintage because a disk that pressed upon the actuation needle > slipped out of place and jammed the system shut. This was a VERY common > period valve that was used in many different vehicles and after market > kits. Cars such as AMC, Ford and Lincoln are only a few. It was made by > the > Singer sewing machine company(Do they exist anymore?). The installation > of > the Vanagon expansion valve was unique in that it was mounted sideways. > All > the rest were mounted conventionally, with the "head" up, and worked fine. > During a very cold winter the R-12 in the sensing bulb and metal parts > inside would contract beyond the parts tolerances and allow the actuating > dish to slip sideways a 1/4 inch off center, and jam. When spring came, > that > was it. Some slipped and some didn't. I took apart about 5 or 6 of these > and > they all had the same problem. I stopped tearing them apart. > > Your system of 50 feet of hoses needs flushing out to change the old oil. > 80 > percent of this needs to be removed. Ester oil is compatable with most > newer > refrigerants and is a good choice ( Is this related to ester-c and ester-e > vitamins? :>)). Most of the nasty old oil is in the evaporator and does > not > want to come out, so you must get all the oil from locations that are > more > accessible to meet the 80 percent standard. You will need to disassemble > most of the hose connections. I use mineral spirits, a funnel, and a > compressor to do this, myself. Pour it in, let it sit for a few minutes, > blow it back and forth, and then out-repeat. > > That vacuum pump thingie will work, but it needs to be left on for a long > time. Lots of people leave a regular vacuum pump on overnight. I don't > know > how long you will need to leave that pump you have on, but it uses a > compressor, so the compressor will need to run for along time. > > > ANOTHER SIDE TRACK--- 1/20TH of 1 drop can shut an A/C system down. It > happens this way: Moisture circulates with the refrigerant and oil. The > dessicant bag in the dryer is supposed to attract and lock-up this > moisture, > but it can become overwhelmed or damaged. Free water will circulate in the > liquid state and collect at the expansion valve where the refrigerant is > forced, at high pressure, through a pin hole. The refrigerant temapture > drops to below freezing at this point, and the water it contains turns to > ice. The ice starts to collect at the opening of the expansion valve and > eventually blocks the opening completely. The system shuts down. Water > also > combines with R-12 to cause serious corrosion and oil contamination. If > this > R-12 and water mixture is burned, it creates a Phosgene gas that is > dangerous. This gas was used in WW-1. Be surgically clean and desert dry. > > After flushing out and vacuuming the system, and you are ready to > charge-in > the R-12, do a leak test. Let your vacuum pump stay connected, but turn it > off. Watch the gauge for about an hour to see if you loose vacuum. Maybe > longer than an hour. If you have a leak, tighten up on the connection a > bit > and retest. > > Change the valve cores with cores rated for a/c systems. You can get them > at > an a/c supply shop. Don't use cores that are for your tires. Valve cores > are > a major leak source. All the hoses and such are non metric. If you have an > electronic leak finder, charge in a few ounces of refrigerant and do some > checking before adding the enitre 48 ounces, or so. A soapy solution for > leak testing is very good and available a the a/c supplier. So are answers > to questions. If you can remove the evaporator, do it. Teh box that > contains > this needs work most times. There are seals that Home Depot can provide > and > keep the air flowing best. This way the evaporator can be dealt with best, > too, this way. Make sure your drain tubes are well attached. > > > Good luck >


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