Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 11:03:06 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Draggin caliper, bad bearing job, or paranoia? - workmanship
In-Reply-To: <9D399418-5CD7-4BBF-AC6E-8418DF429C2A@GMAIL.COM>
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If you can feel a noticeable diference between left and front
wheels/hubs etc, something is 'going on'.
I'm surprised there's been no thought or mention, other than mine, about
dragging caliper.
In any case............you really Should have an infra red temp gun -
then...........
in 2 seconds, you see one front wheel is say 130 degrees adn the other
195............you know for sure something not right is going on.
ig you jack it up briefly - how easily does each front tire turn ? -
should turn by hand pretty easily.
on the right one, since there's no speedo cable to mess with - it's
pretty quick to pop off the bearing cap and , with wheel off the ground,
check the load or tension on the nut.
did you TURN the wheel while you tightened the nut ?
that's important. what I do is tighten down while turning until it's
pretty draggy, then back off just a bit.
also.........how well did you get the new reaces seated ?
here's a great trick to make a perfect race installer tool - you take an
old race..........and you grind down the outside of it just enough until
it's a slide fit in the hub, then you use that as a driver to install
the new races. If you really want to be slick, weld a little metal
handle on it . Then you know the race is properly seated, like really
properly seated.
I would consider it very normal and wise to re-check them after driving
50 miles or so.
HERE IS HOW I COMPARE THE RELATIVE IMPORTANCE AND VALUE OF WORKMANSHIP
and MATERIALS USED,
VERSUS the value of a new part ( assuming the old ones are not just shot )
Workmanshp and materials used, like grease - 9.9 on a scale of ten.
Using new parts where they old ones were serviceable yet - 3 on a sclae
of ten.
In other words............'new parts' by themselves are not very useful
unless actually needed. Actually.........many people loose ground
putting in new parts and not doing it perfectly. As in art, like say
Oil Painting ...........it's the WORKMANSHIP that matters the very, very
most !
( people also put in inferior aftermarket parts sometimes too - like el
cheapo distributor caps say, where good german Bosch ones hardly wear at
all )
scott
www.turbovans.com
Aaron wrote:
> On Jun 21, 2008, at 6:26 PM, Mike wrote:
>
>> If your newly greased bearing is running hot, then it may be too
>> tight, insufficiently lubed, contaminated with dirt, or the bearing
>> itself may be bad.
>
> I'm thinking that they are just about right...just becoming hard to
> move the washer...just past where I can feel movement in the wheel
> bearings. It seems to spin fine by hand. I did "press" the inner race
> in using a 1 7/8" socket and hammer...the races looked fine , but who
> knows.
>
>> Did you clean and thoroughly inspect the rollers and races before
>> adding new grease? This includes the inner races that are pressed
>> into the rotor.
>> Did you push grease through the cages until it came out the other
>> side? If not, you should have.
> I put *new* races and bearings in. Yes, they were clean, and I pressed
> grease around in them for a bit and then put them on with a little
> extra. No "globs", no filled grease caps etc.
>
> So it sounds like I'm just a little paranoid. Perhaps I can feel the
> heat better since I'm feeling the clean metal of the new rotor vs the
> dirt insulated other one.
>
> I think I'll give the bearings a ride. Thanks for the info.
>
>
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