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Date:         Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:46:35 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Engine out--won't come apart. Need heads!
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <4d1b79350806240658v19ea6b9bj888485c8c6523b45@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The could have at least made piston pihn access holes on both ends of the block ! you have to do the second piston through the first pistons 'area'.

there's a small tool that's an 'examdable grabber' made for extracting oil pressure relief pistons on air cooled VW engine blocks.......... it's exactly the right size to grab the inside of the wrist pin.

heating the piston helps sometimes too.

But I'm curious what you or others are going to do with your separated cases and crankshaft. Are main bearing sets readily availble in standard or oversize ? I've heard they were hard to get.

I don't know if waterboxers have a thrust issue in the case like air-cooled vw engines do .......and does anybody line bore cases anymore anyway ? Perhaps you'll just leave the main bearings alone- in which case, unless there is an oil leak at the case split or something .......there's no reason to take the cases apart that I can think of - except new main bearings would be better I suppose.

FYI - main bearings on vw engines .......at least traditionally have '3 oversize' things to consider - there's smaller on the inside if the crank is turned, there's larger on the outside if the case is line bored, and ..........don't know if wbxr's have this m but they might..........there is also how wide the main bearing by the flywheel is...........cases used to get a 'thrust cut' so that the new main bearing at the flywheel end would fit tightly in the case again..

here's a trick to tell how loose or tight your flywheel main bearing is in the case. You remove the flywheel, put in a few extra end play shims, and tighten the flywheel back on.........this locks the crank and the flywheel end bearing together in one piece..........then you pry up/down and left/right, and try look for end play ........if the main bearing is loose in the case ...........you can tell by flywheel movement. it's not supposed to move there at all.

but have fun ! I will be interested , Very interseted to hear what you find on the main bearings and what you do there when putting it back together. My guess is you'll just re-use the exisiting main bearings or put in a new standard set.

you know about plasti-guage yes ? it's the rod bearings and rod bearing oil clearance that's the weak thing on 2.1's I hear. I'd want the crank turned or polished at least there, connecting rods checked and rebuilt- new rod bearing bolts, and new rod bearings, and check the oil cleaarace with plastiguage. Lot of work ! but worth it to do it right. ( I think I'd convert it to overhead cam and subaru 4 valve heads while I had the engine this far apart - lol ) have fun. nice to see you go for it on serious engine work. scott turbovans

Jim Felder wrote: > I got the sleeves out after a long session with a slide puller. Grabbed them > by the ears and out they came. I notice in the Bentley that VW makes a > special tool that grabs them by the groove for the green rubber o-ring. I > don't think that would have worked on these. > Getting the engine case apart was vexing because I didn't have a way to get > the pins out of the pistons. My local shop said "if you take the circlips > out, we'll take the pins out." That's where it is now. > > Jim > > On Mon, Jun 23, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Benny boy <huotb@videotron.ca> wrote: > > >> Hey hey hey... i have been there so many time. Respect my friend... work >> hard and learn the infamous way's of the wasser leaker. >> >> Pry that sleeve out of there, even VW made it easy for us,, just look >> carefully. >> >> I'm so bad.... >> >> Ben >> >> On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 21:25:29 -0500, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> >> wrote: >> >> >>> I got the engine out and used the expert advice received from previous >>> threads to break it down without much trouble until it came to remove the >>> cylinders. Only number one would budge. I'm pretty well equipped with >>> >> tools, >> >>> but whatever it takes to pry cylinders out of a waterboxer, I don't got. >>> So, I tried to separate the case anyway. I've got it about four inches >>> >> apart >> >>> at the seam, but don't have a way to apply non-destructive force beyond >>> that. So I gave up and will take it to a VW shop tomorrow to get the >>> cylinders out. >>> >>> Everything I've seen inside looks pretty good, to my amazement, except the >>> heads, which were used anyway. So much for used head. >>> >>> I just missed getting a set of very lightly used AMC heads by one day. >>> Anybody else out there with a pair? I'm not looking for anything that >>> >> needs >> >>> to be welded or rebuilt, but for something in very good condition. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Jim >>> > > >


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