Thanks Mark. I just figured out how to wire up the Jetta coolant temp gauge on my VanaJetta conversion. (connected to ECT and 12V+) It may be that giving it 12V gave the high reading. I'm hoping so as when I hooked it up, after a run up some mountain hills, the needle went all the way over to the right! I was planning on taking out the Vanagon gauge from a spare WBX cluster to compare temps. I'll keep it in there and find the correct connections to utilize the voltage stabilizer in conjunction with the gauge to see if I can get a more accurate reading. IR guns locally are expensive, so I'm hoping the Vanagon gauge will suffice for now.
Neil. On Sat, Jul 5, 2008 at 12:33 PM, mdrillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote: > The name is misleading perhaps. What it is really is a 10 volt regulator. It > takes the varying 11-14 volts of the vehicle wiring and drops it down to a > steady 10 volts. The vehicle wiring voltage varies depending on alternator > output, what loads are turned on, etc. The "voltage stabilizer" provides the > temp gauge and fuel gauge with a constant voltage no matter what else is > going on so these gauges read the same no matter what else is going on. For > example, otherwise when the radiator fan came on the gauge needles would > move to different positions and then back again after the fan stopped. > Headlights, wipers, etc would have similar effects. > > In other words the temp and fuel gauges are calibrated to run on 10 volts, > not 12 volts, and this component provides a stable 10 volts. > > Mark > > > > neil N wrote: >> >> Hi all. >> >> Does the voltage stabilizer work in conjunction with the engine >> coolant temp gauge? >> >> i.e. if one took the engine temp gauge out of the cluster, connected >> it straight to the temp sending unit (sensor) and 12+, would this give >> an innacurate reading of engine coolant temp? >> >> Like maybe too high? >> >> Thanks much! >> >> Neil. >> |
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