I have used this double gasket approach on all used waterboxer exhaust system for many years now. metal side of gasket out, thin layers of hi temp rtv between each and on mating surfaces, allow to for skin, assemble, give 12 hours minimum to cure. I use loctite hi temp RTV, 2400degree, in a 300ml cartridge, bought off eBay. Red loctite on all hardware holding the pieces together. Heat will be needed to break the hardware apart whenever, so make a note or label in engine compartment. If the mating surfaces are not flat, do not start the van to see how well it worked just after finishing. Let it sit for 12 hours minimum. dylan
----- Original Message ---- From: Michael Diehr <md03@XOCHI.COM> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:36:40 PM Subject: Re: Stubborn Exhaust leak Hmm... I do have a tube of RTV red, and it says 650F maximum -- wouldn't it just cook & melt or does it not actually get that hot? Can you share your sandwich recipe? Do the flat metal sides of the gaskets go inside or outside? does the RTV go in between the sandwich or outside or ...? On Jul 13, 2008, at 9:23 AM, Stuart MacMillan wrote: > I had a similar problem on my '84. First, I took a big bastard file > and > tried to file the flanges flat, but they still didn't line up > parallel to > their mates. So, I used a two gasket sandwich with hi temp silicone > and > that worked very well. The extra thickness compressed and filled > the wedge > shaped gap between the mating flanges. > > A proper, but more expensive solution would indeed be to cut off the > flanges, file or grind flat, bolt them up, and weld the pipe back on. > > Stuart > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > Behalf Of > Michael Diehr > Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 9:02 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Stubborn Exhaust leak > > 85 vanagon with exhaust leak at the junction between the two header > pipes and the collector pipe (part #G on this picture: > http://www.bus-boys.com/vanwasser83-91.html > ) I removed the parts, sanded off the remains of the gaskets, > installed new gaskets, bolted it back together and... it leaks just as > bad as before. Took it apart again -- The collector pipe (G) seems > ok, but the ends of the header pipes are pretty rusted, and I can see > how it may be difficult for the gasket to seal. Tried some high- > temperature metal gunk to fill in the gaps, then reassembled but > didn't really seem to help :(. FYI, I put the metal side of the > gasket towards the collector as that seemed the most logical and > seemed to match the prior parts, though Bentley was not clear on that > topic. > > I'm tempted to take it to my local mechanic, hat in hand, and say > "make it work!" but I haven't entirely lost faith yet. Is the > solution new header pipes? A MIG welder? :) |
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