Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2008 13:53:04 -0700
Reply-To: PB <pbrattan@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: PB <pbrattan@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Playing "Mechanic Ping-Pong" with my Westy!
In-Reply-To: <01e401c8e198$9829bd50$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Scott,
I emailed you, but it bounced back to me.
Patti
**********************
On Wed, Jul 9, 2008 at 12:32 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
sottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> need a bit more info.
> one, is the temp gague itself - the needle, acting normally ?
> You don't mention that it's reading high, just that the red LED is
> flashing, right ?
>
> that light is 'over active' particularily in the 'coolant level function.
> personally, I very much dislike that feature since it can give false
> indications.
> If it's coming on from the 'level' function ( and not from the 'i'm too hot
> portion' of the waring cicuit )......
> then what I do to take that level function out of the picture compleletely,
> sometimes.
> is unplug the two-wire connector from the level sensor on the pressure
> bottle and jumper the two wires together with a resistor.
> Forget the value, but it's not critical. Just not 'pure open' and not
> jumpered together - just some reistance. Try 1,500 ohms say.
>
> that will trick the level sensor part of the circuit into thinking it's ok.
> then........at least you have a normal temp guage with a needle that moves
> normally, and it should still flash the light if it gets really too hot.
> I don't see that you say WHAT YEAR Vanagon you have.
> the early ones will peg the temp needle at max if it turns on the red LED.
> even if it's very cold and only been running a few minutes. The later ones
> don't do that.
> doubt you're having that though.
> but that's what I would try for an experiment at least, is jumper the two
> level sensor wires at the level sensor with a resistor, and see if that
> doesn't get you to a normal acting temp guage.
>
> it is also possible for the circuit in the dash opr temp guage to be
> faulty ..........but I've not run into that problem at all.
> scott
> www.turbovans.com
> belive me, I have MANY tricks you won't see anywhere else. There are people
> who knows things I don't know, for sure. But there are many, many tricks I
> have that you won't hear about anywhere else.
> and.......to carry on a bit - really gets me that people don't seem to
> readily grasp the value of taking certain things out of the picture, so you
> can see the rest of the picture clearly. I have been fixing cars that way
> for over 4 decades. maybe longer.
> oh yeah...........I have just gone around and around over a computer and a
> shop , and I SO FEEL for anyone that has to depend on a shop to get their
> car fixed - because too often what you get is is you spend money, but things
> don't change. for that very reason, I am going back to doing EVERYTHING
> myself on setting up my computer, cause I was in that cycle if I'd spend $,
> it wold be ok for a while, then spend more $....then it would break again
> .........
> You need to find people to work on your vanagon that will think outside
> of the box. I rate about one in 1,000 car shops as really brilliant, sadly
> !
> and vanagons are not that hard to fix at all really.
> and it helps if you can find a Vanagon specialist - that makes all the
> difference in the world actually. That and a rear burnign commitment ot
> Results and great Value for your hard earned dollar !
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "PB" <pbrattan@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 5:51 PM
> Subject: Playing "Mechanic Ping-Pong" with my Westy!
>
> >I posted a while ago that I took my Westy to a local German car mechanic
> > because of oil and transmission fluid leaks. He pressure tested the
> > radiator and said it needed to be replaced, so I let him do it. Well,
> the
> > leaks are fixed, but the engine temperature light keeps going on within
> 5-15
> > minutes after I start driving. When I stop and check the fluids, both
> > reservoirs are properly filled. The mechanic replaced the sensor, but
> the
> > light continued to go on. I've had the van back to the mechanic around 5
> > times, and it's still not fixed! I just dropped it off again today, and
> the
> > light was flashing when I pulled into the garage. The mechanic said to
> shut
> > off the engine, so I did. He then got in, turned it back on, took it for
> a
> > test ride, and the light didn't go on at all! I chose this mechanic
> > because I drive past his garage every day on the way to work, and he has
> > been there for at least 25 years.
> >
> > I called another mechanic, the renowned "Bela" of Burbank, CA. He told
> me
> > to ask the mechanic to check the hose temperature, and set the thermostat
> to
> > open at a lower temperature. The mechanic says that the replacement
> sensor
> > he installed was not the original one, and the original one was not
> > available. He also said that the wires were corroded, and the wires are
> > also unavailable! This has been going on since April! I'm afraid to
> drive
> > the van, even if the coolant appears to be full. I live in North
> Hollywood
> > (Los Angeles.) Does anyone have any suggestions? I sure would like to
> be
> > able to go to Santa Barbara in the Westy this weekend...(the French
> > Festival! I went there LAST year in the Westy without any problem.)
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Patti
>
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