Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 13:58:12 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder - Help!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
hi.
of course one would bleed the entire clutch hydrualic system after replacing the clutch master cylinder.
there is a cheater way of just replacing and bleeding only the master cyldiner ( brake or clutch ) but that's totall mickey mouse as there deffenitely will be air in the lines some, once you open the system up. Just bleeding to the pipe nuts on the M/C can't posssibly really cut it.
I would even say it's 'not possible' to replace the clutch master cylinder without bleeding the system out to the slave bleed valve.
scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Felder
To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Master Cylinder - Help!
Sorry about the confusing terms. I'm talking about the clutch hydraulic system. If you replace the master, you WILL have to bleed the slave as it will not release the clutch after about a thousand miles. I think a lot of people think the clutch slave has failed at that point, and they replace it. In replacing it, they bleed it, of course, which was--unbeknownst to them--the original problem.
My point is that if you have replaced the master and the slave seems to have failed, bleed it first before you spend the money and take the time to replace the slave.
Jim
On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 12:35 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
hi,
not following you exactly Jim,
I will always say that if both units are old, and you replace one, it's fairly likely the new strong one will blow out the older weaker one before too long.
On using vaccuum to bleed - I'm sure that works. I've never liked that idea much as seems to me it could suck in air.
Bleeding that way would eleminate the difficulty of getting a new clutch master cylinder to start moving fluid through that line back to the slave. The displacement of the clutch M/C is so small each stroke, that in a dry system it has trouble bleeding at first with either the two person method, or the one person 'bottle of brake fluid with clear hose' method. Once going though......
I personally like using the master cylinder, either clutch or brake, to push fluid and air through the system - you can just feel when it's working right.
well are we talking about brakes or clutch system here ?
one guy talks about brake bleed valve on the back of a wheel,
another person about 'the slave' ............and while rear wheel cylinders 'can' be called slaves..........usually they are not.
they're called 'rear wheel cylinders' and 'the slave' refers to the clutch slave cylinder.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder - Help!
I'm not so sure about this. It may be true, and a lot of people think it,
but it also may be--and I know that this is true--that the slave will need
bleeding a few hundred to a thousand miles after the master is replaced,
leading one to believe that the slave has failed also.
Jim
On Mon, Jul 21, 2008 at 8:48 AM, Jonathan A. Sinclair <
jonathan@jasinclair.com> wrote:
Always replace the slave and the master together - if one is worn out,
likely the new one will wear out the other quickly.
There is a bleed screw on top of the slave in the engine compartment you
can open that and use a vacuum bleeder to do the job. Will also serve
to clean out your line.
Good luck.
Jonathan
John Rodgers wrote:
Sounds like you need to open the bleeder valves on the back of the wheel
and have someone pump the brake pedal while you bleed each brake. If
that doesn't do it, then you may have a bad MC. It can happen, has
happened, will happen.
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
pete wrote:
80 Westy - installed a rebuilt brake MC from a list vendor - the male
from the servo and the female on the MC are mated. I fill the
reservoir and pump the pedal - the reservoir stays at the same level
and there is no brake resistance. Any ideas? Please?
TIA
Pete