Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:16:12 EDT
Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: 87 Westy Engine/Trans removal Day 1 - or Boy,
do I miss my 67 Westy!!!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 18/07/2008 2:58:59 P.M. Central Standard Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
As I was removing the 100th coolant hose (BTW did I mention how much I hate
spring clamps!!! Yes, wet toilet, paper cold pizza, warm beer and friggin'
spring clamps!! (all of which are pointing in an inaccessible direction)
Richard, those spring clamps can be a PITA. BUT, they are the
best hose clamps you can have. Do not under any circumstances replace them
!!!! If you need new ones they are available from VW. There are six
different sizes, see my _Vanagon Items Forsale_
(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sales.htm) website under the "Cooling System" header. To make working with those
spring clamps more fun you need the proper spring clamp tools. Hand held
ones looking like pliers with different angled jaws are available, remote cable
operated ones also, these come from SEARS or good tool suppliers. And, to make
some of those clamps work easier, the small tab that stops the clamp from
opening all the way can be cut of with a cut off wheel on a die grinder to
allow the clamp to open more allowing it to slip down the hose over the nipple
bubble. They were intended to be put on the hose in the proper place and the
hose and clamp together moved into location. However when removing old hoses
the hose is usually stuck to the nipple and removing it without first
getting the hose clamp out of the way is impossible or difficult or impossible.
When installing the hoses onto any aluminium nipples use Loctite Grey RTV
Silicon Sealant made for use on aluminium. This will stop any corrosion of the
aluminium nipple as your seeing on the nipples of the old engine. No sealant
is needed where hoses connect to plastic nipples. ALL HOSES should be
inspected for integrity, the ends cleaned thoroughly so no corrosion is left behind
to impede connection to the new nipple or the hose should be replaced with a
new one.
One more suggestion while I have your attention. ALL and I mean ALL of
the metal pipes, brackets, flanges, pulleys, plenum, intake runners, etc.
made from metal that rusts and was painted originally, or plated and corroded
such as the push rod tube covers, engine lower tins, muffler shield, coolant
tank support, etc., SHOULD ALL be cleaned, wire brushed, sandblasted, then
coated with POR-15 ! I do this on all quality engine rebuild jobs. Then you
will always have a real pretty, clean looking engine. Just a simple wash with a
pressure sprayer and viola - CLEAN & SHINNY !
_http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/POR15edParts_
(http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/POR15edParts)
Enjoy your father son project - You will be happy with the results when your
done.
Cheers,
Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
- Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/exhaust.htm)
_BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008
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