Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:15:16 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Dometic won't light troubleshooting
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thnanks for posting this info Neil.
I have one in a westy that is just somewhat weak in performance on 110 (
havn't gotten the flame to light yet, but not too worried about that )
.........
so maby I need to turn my Dometic Fridge or whole van over , eh ?
I'll give it a shot if I end up getting the fridge out eventually.
comments on 'permantent damage' from operating it with the van tilted,
anyone ?
the fridge relay under the driver's seat is to ensure that the fridge can
only get 12V when the engine is running, and the altenrnator is charging,
of course.
scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "neil N" <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: Dometic won't light troubleshooting
> There is a process termed as "burping" the Dometic. Basically with the
> fridge on the bench, you turn it upside down for 24 hours or so, then
> (of course) turn it right side up. I'm not clear on the chemical
> aspect of absorption fridges, but I gather that the ammonia etc. may
> need a "kick start" to start moving and/or combining again.
>
> There's more in the archives, but if one has their fridge removed, it
> can't hurt to burp it.
>
> Thomas I don't know if you're on this list, but let us know if hooking
> it up to the AC in your garage worked. This is the most reliable test
> of the chemicals in the Dometic. If it works, then I would suggest a
> few things to check or recheck.
>
> 12V wiring, fuses, and "fridge relay" (on early models it's on the
> fridge itself and later models it's in the aux battery area under
> driver seat)
>
> Something else to bear in mind, the cost of repairing a Dometic might
> be high. A good 12V/110AC fridge might make sense at that point. AND,
> you never know what the PO may have done to "fix" the Dometic. (with
> good intentions I'm sure ---;^) In that case you're double checking
> his work too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Neil.
>
> On Tue, Jul 15, 2008 at 7:36 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@xochi.com> wrote:
>> thomas -- you replied only to me, so I'm ccing the vanagon list (hope
>> that's ok!)
>>
>> On Jul 14, 2008, at 10:02 PM, Thomas Jefferson Kitts wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 14, 2008, at 9:23 PM, Michael Diehr wrote:
>>>
>>>> Any tips?
>>>
>>> Ummm, Did you open the tank valve? (Kidding. Kidding.)
>>
>> I wish! :)
>>
>> Re: your fridge: If you've plugged it into 120VAC and switched it to
>> AC, you should (after 15-30 minutes) fee heat around the back along
>> the insulated pipe (the galvanized steel cylinder with insulation
>> inside). After 30 minutes on mine it was too hot too touch, but the
>> inside fins didn't cool down for another hour or two. No heat
>> would indicate electrical problem. Ditto for 12V use.
>>
>> If it does heat up, but the fridge doesn't cool inside (give it 2
>> hours or so, longer if you've had the fridge upside down or sideways),
>> then I'd suspect that your chemicals have leaked out, which probably
>> means replacement or service at dometic, as I don't think that's a DIY.
>>
>> The vitrifrigo replacement discussed on the list sounds like a nice
>> alternative if you are sick of the dometic -- all electric, 2x the
>> food storage space, and works in all weather.
>>
>>
>>> I have my own Dometic woes to share. Just pulled out the fridge in
>>> my 84 Westy because I can't get it to work on any power source, be
>>> it propane, 12V, or 120V. Only owned the Westy for a couple of weeks
>>> now and have never got it working.
>>>
>>> Downloaded the Dometic pdf manual and here's what I've confirmed.
>>>
>>> 1. The propane system is working. Stove lights nicely. I've been
>>> able to create the propane bang with the pilot light (before taking
>>> the Dometic out!) so I don't think my problem has anything to do
>>> with the LP delivery system. Scared the heck out of my wife who was
>>> watching the vent from a few feet away as I fussed with the ignitor.
>>> Shot some nice flames.
>>>
>>> 2. The 120 receptacle where the fridge 120 plugs into has power.
>>> (tested with a circuit tester) And BTW, the cabinet 120 power is
>>> working too as I "pushed the broken pin in to reset it." Still going
>>> to replace the circuit breaker though . . . sigh.
>>>
>>> 3. Tried using the 12v setting with no measurable cooling effect but
>>> I didn't leave it on over night. Didn't want to run the batteries
>>> down if it worked.
>>>
>>> 4. All connections and wires seem to be in good order. But I don't
>>> have any equipment to really test for shorts or failed circuits.
>>>
>>>
>>> So I think I'm left with some failed aspect of the Dometic system
>>> which is common to all three power sources, or the coolant itself
>>> has failed. Or a multiplicity of problems I don't yet understand. A
>>> vortex, or shamanistic magic words not uttered.
>>>
>>> Any ideas anyone?
>>>
>>> After pulling the Dometic out, I plugged the it into 120v in my
>>> garage with the fridge door propped shut and the 120 switches set.
>>> Put a beer inside as an offering to to Gods of Cold. Going to leave
>>> it connected overnight but I'm not expecting to find anything
>>> chilling in the morning.
>>>
>>> Unless I'm missing something obvious (like, you know, a level
>>> fridge) I'm out of my depth and want a recommendation of whom I can
>>> take it to for servicing in the Portland, Oregon area. I'm probably
>>> going to need to find one of those cranky old guys in the back of a
>>> dusty shop. A guy who can eat Dometics for breakfast.
>>>
>>> Then again, that's some pretty nice looking cargo space under the
>>> stove right now . . .
>>>
>>> regards,
>>>
>>> Thomas
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 JettaWesty "Jaco
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
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