Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 07:51:04 -0700
Reply-To: The Westy man <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: The Westy man <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Solved; OIL warning light up
In-Reply-To: <c8d.28df5169.35b9adc8@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Hello List,
I generously thank all who spent time and effort in helping me to find the
trouble.
Well, I wish any of you or I was right in guessing the obvious. So, I
checked the wires, tightened the connections, changede the switch, and I got
nothing. The buzzer with the light came up.
Then, I took the instruments out, after I made sure it is well plugged in,
disconnected that block of connections, looked at it, could not find
anything wrong with it, put it back, started the engine again, and the
symptom disappeared. No more buzzer and red light. Wow!
One of the unexplainables, but I did not question. The job was done.
Any of you would know the reason?
Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Condelli" <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: OIL warning light up
> In a message dated 23/07/2008 11:41:03 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
> I R&R the high pressure oil sender in 1/2hr. without removing
> anything else. Sometime the muffler shield must be pried backwards a bit
> to
> allow the 1/2 drive deep well socket to get on the sensor. Use a breaker
> bar
> on the socket as it takes up less space than a ratchet. Also a short
> socket
> reducer to 3/8" drive can be inserted in the deep well socket part way
> which
> allows the use of a 1/2" open end wrench to turn the socket. A pair of
> long
> angled needle nose pliers is used to remove the spade connector on the
> end of
> the wire. Pull on the wire to break the tie wrap. That spade connector
> to
> wire connection is most times bad, so now's the time to cut off the
> terminal
> end, strip back the wire and crimp on a new, fully insulated, spade
> connector.
> Use Dielectric grease on the connection. Put back the tie wrap to keep
> the
> wire from being caught up in the waterpump belt, that part is fun, use
> the
> needle nose pliers again for that little job.
>
>
>
>
>
> The easy way to the rear sensor is to remove the water pump pulley. A dep
> socket can then be used to remove and replace the sensor. Again, be sure
> to
> use the correct one, .9 Bar.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli & Associates_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
> - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/exhaust.htm)
> _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper
> camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.5.5/1569 - Release Date: 7/23/2008
> 1:31 PM
>
>
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