Date:         Thu, 24 Jul 2008 10:02:41 -0700
Reply-To:     mdrillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         mdrillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: proper voltages
In-Reply-To:  <F0ED6BC55D694EAABBA5E2CB5589E6A9@StusLaptopPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hopefully someone explained to Woody the importance of the small blue
wire to the alternator from the dash alt warning led. If there is a
problem in the blue wire circuit the alternator voltage test results may
be invalid. The blue wire initially brings 12 volts from the dash led
to the alternator to get charging started. The led should be on whenever
the key is on and engine is not yet running.

Mark

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> You betcha.  In the past I've paid $100 to $150 for a quality rebuild at an
> auto electric shop, if I bring it in.  Amounts vary depending on how
> comprehensive the rebuild is.  Since these are usually pretty old
> alternators, I've gone full boat--new bearings and everything else.  You can
> tell these guys what you want done.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Woody Halsey [mailto:WHalsey@sya.org]
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 4:08 AM
> To: Stuart MacMillan; David Beierl; Michael Diehr; Scott Daniel - Turbovans
> Subject: RE: proper voltages
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> Last night I polished the connections at the alternator and came up with
> the following readings:
>
> Across the poles of the battery, engine off     12.02, then 11.96
> Across the poles of the battery, engine on      11.65
>
> At the alternator pole, engine on of course     11.60
>
> >From the alternator to the junction box
> (red and white wires, engine on)                        0
>
> Conclusion: I am no longer losing power between the alternator and the
> junction box ... but I need to have the alternator rebuilt.
>
> Can anyone confirm those conclusions?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Woody
> 83.5 V'gon
> Haverhill, MA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stuart MacMillan [mailto:macgroup@comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:03 PM
> To: Woody Halsey; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: RE: proper voltages
>
> Well, each cell generates a little over 2v, but internal resistance
> usually
> gives you 12v to 12.4v at the terminals.  Alternators are set to put out
> between 13.6v to 14.2v at any rpm, but that can drop under load or at
> low
> speed.  High speed should be at least 13.6v, if not, your alternator is
> weak
> or too small for the load.  Vanagon Westies  should have a 90amp
> alternator,
> but output will drop with age.
>
> Sounds like you are due for a new one, or take yours to a good auto
> electric
> shop for rebuilding.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of
> Woody Halsey
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 12:55 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: proper voltages
>
> Dear List,
>
> Can anyone tell me what voltage readings I should be getting from my
> battery:
>
> 1)     with engine off
> 2)     with engine idling
> 3)     with engine at high RPM (if I can figure out how to test that)
>
> My mechanic states that since the readings do not go above 13V when the
> engine is running, the alternator must be malfunctioning.  Is that true?
>
> P.S.  My paint/rust/insulation/interior detailing projects are finally
> completed. Of course I will never take it out of the garage again for
> fear of getting wet, but she sure looks nice. My surgeon wife likens her
> to an elderly lady with a face job: beautiful on the outside, but just
> waiting for a key organ to cease functioning.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Woody
>
>
>