Date:         Thu, 31 Jul 2008 13:47:51 -0700
Reply-To:     mdrillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         mdrillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: Aux driving lights question..best easy power source..?
In-Reply-To:  <112601c8f34b$dc75e5f0$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

The regular 4 contact relay is all he needs. Don is using a small wire
from the high beams to feed the new switch. Thus the new switch will
only have power when hi-beams on. Then he is using the output of that
switch to control a new relay for the new lights. The only current that
will flow through the new switch will be the very small amount needed to
activate the relay. What he is asking for are suggestions of where to
get main power for the relay from. I would want that to come from the
battery with a new 8 gauge wire and fuse at the battery end. If it was
me I would use that wire to power the hi-beams as well on another relay
but that is more than he asked for.

Mark

Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
> nice strategy on the 'only when hi beams are on' ..........
> On a regular 4 contact relay ............
> they way you plan it right now ...........the load current would have to
> come from your high beam circuit. Not the best.
> what you want is a more evoled relay ,
> they have 5 or 6 contacts......perhaps that's what you have in mind
> already.
> With one of those two conditions have to be met to make the load part
> connect.........
> you have your KC lites switch on, AND hi beams are on............
> but the high beam cirucit is not the load source..........
> it only allows the real load souce to make connection.
> And you get that voltage off the fat wire feeding the fuse box or light
> switch .........
> or even your own dedicated fat wire from the battery or whaever, fuse
> protected of course.
> ...............
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hanson" <dhanson@GORGE.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 12:46 PM
> Subject: Aux driving lights question..best easy power source..?
>
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>>  I am installing some KC Daylighter lights onto my 84 vans front bumper.
>> These came from my now retired big Ford.  100 watt bulbs, you see em
>> everywhere on showboat trucks and buggies, the big round ones with the
>> 'smiler face' covers sometimes.
>>
>>  Anyhow, I used these on my pickup in Baja and on deserted roads and
>> they've saved me a few cow and deer encounters so now they are going
>> onto
>> the van.
>>  So far, I have all the stuff and the hardware is in place, with the
>> lights
>> drilled into the bumpers right under my headlights.  I also have a
>> genuine
>> VW auxiliary light switch for the blank position in my dash switch
>> panel.
>> Here's my plan..see if it makes sense.  I plan to take a small lead from
>> my
>> high beams, probably from the fuse panel and run that to the aux light
>> switch.  I will use the aux light switch to control a 30 amp relay to
>> power
>> the lights, but the aux. light switch will only get power through the
>> switch
>> if the high beams are on.  So, if I want the aux lights on, I have to
>> run
>> the high beams..and if I dim the high beams, the aux light switch
>> will no
>> longer power that relay, so the auxiliary lights will go off also.  Just
>> in
>> case I am on a mountain road and come round a corner encountering a
>> stray
>> vehicle with my driving lights on, a quick dip of the high beams will
>> kill
>> em. (as is mandated by law, too, I think, though the KC lights aren't
>> highway legal anyhow.)
>>
>>  So the question is, where is a good place to get some power for the
>> power
>> side of the light relay I plan to install as close to the lights as
>> possible.  Shorter is better, right?  But I don't want to chance
>> overloading
>> a critical circuit so what would be good?  I could come forward from my
>> coach battery (under the driver seat) or maybe from the fan power
>> supply.
>> Not the headlights..as I'd hate blowing a fuse and being lightless at
>> speed..
>>  any suggestions, any 'gotchas' with my plan?
>>  Thanks,
>> Don Hanson
>>
>>  I don't care if it doesn't look 'factory'.  I can live with extra
>> visible
>> wires.  Easy of install overrides beauty, but durability and function
>> trumps
>> all.
>
>