Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 22:34:26 -0500
Reply-To: Ben Cichowski <aquasheck@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben Cichowski <aquasheck@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Oil and Coolant Reccomendations
In-Reply-To: <71d9cdf90807311926u31630de9u6134e4c675ec0e2b@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Coolant:
OK, normally like to avoid these discussions...but please people...read the dang bottle. Yes, the green stuff is phosphate free also. Please see full explanation below:
In reality, it makes no difference what coolant you use, IF you use the right water to mix it with...i.e. distilled or RO water.
The reason that Euro cars come with huge warnings about not using phosphates in the coolant is because water, in general, is both higher in minerals (like iron and manganese) and harder (i.e. higher in calcium and magnesium ions and their compounds).
Phosphates are excellent for preventing rust (they act like a coating) and keeping dissolved metals in solution by sequestering these molecules. They are used all the time in drinking water systems to keep pipes from rusting and to keep dissolved iron and manganese from coming out of solution and staining fixtures and such. So that is why they USED to be added to coolants; to prevent your car parts from rusting from the inside out.
BUT...under high heat conditions, we now know that these phosphates destabilize and actually do the opposite of they are supposed to do. Under high heat, phosphates will cause dissolved metals to precipitate out of solution. So here is the thing, if you are mixing with distilled water...you won't have any dissolved metals and minerals to speak of, so there isn't anything to come out of solution. And no, simple contact with the metal parts of your engine over the course of a year or three will not add, to any significant degree, dissolved metals to your system.
So the verdict:
1. Green stuff is indeed phosphate free and fine to use. In fact, the tags on the expansion tank on my van say "use only coolants containing ethylene glycol." Hmmm...now what was that compound name on the back of that standard green coolant bottle at the store....ahh yes... ethylene glycol. OH...and the front even says, "phosphate free." Maybe there are still green ones out there that have phosphates...if so, I haven't seen one in quite a while.
2. Use distilled or RO water - it is the water, NOT the corrosion preventative that causes the problems. Your coolant (regardless of the type) is probably just fine.
Ben
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2008 19:26:11 -0700
> From: crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM
> Subject: Re: Oil and Coolant Reccomendations
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
> Like Scott, I've been using 15W-40 truck oil in everything for over 25 years
> and its the shizzle. I use Shell or Castrol.
>
> I'm still using Blue coolant but Allan makes a good pitch.
>
> A surfactant like Redline Water Wetter ( I use the locally made Hyper Lube
> equivalent) can drop your coolant temps noticeably.
>
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2008 at 4:41 PM, Allan Streib <streib@cs.indiana.edu> wrote:
>
> > Aileen Boyd <aileen.boyd@GMAIL.COM> writes:
> >
> > > Hi everyone, Back to re-guessing the age-old question of which oil
> > > and which coolant to use in my Automatic 88' Westy. We are currently
> > > using a Castrol 10w/30 Synthetic Blend. Is this the thickness we
> > > need? We've heard about using 50weight but we think this is better
> > > for new engines. Our engine was a bit neglected by previous owners,
> > > and also has 136,000 miles or so.
> >
> > Use 20w50 unless it's cold. Use Mobil-1 if you can possibly afford
> > it.
> >
> > > Should we go with a thicker oil? What do others with similar
> > > vehicles use?
> >
> > I use Mobil-1 20w50. Full synthetic will flow even in sub-zero
> > temperatures.
> >
> > > Also, can green coolant be phosphate-free? People rant and rave
> > > about the great blue Volkswagen coolant. Is this truly best?
> >
> > Zerex G-05 is phosphate free. This is the Mercedes-Benz formulation.
> > Same as what Mercedes sells with a star on the bottle. I don't know
> > if it's the "best" for a Vanagon but it is phosphate free. I think
> > all the green stuff has phosphate, but if you change it EVERY year (or
> > two at the most) it's probably OK.
> >
> > > I have also heard about Engine Ice. The van currently runs hotter
> > > than I would like. I would like to see it go down by 10 degrees or
> > > so. Does not overheat, radiator fan comes on when idling in traffic
> > > for long periods in hotter weather, or going up a veeeerrryyy steep
> > > hill (as in the Rockies) recently. Thanks!
> >
> > As long as it's not TOO hot, hotter is better. More efficient. If
> > you run it too cool you will increase engine wear and get less fuel
> > economy. Sounds like your cooling system is working as it's supposed
> > to.
> >
> > My $0.02.
> >
> > Allan
> > --
> > 1991 Vanagon GL
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1991 Vanagon GL
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jake
> 1984 Vanagon GL
> 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
> Crescent Beach, BC
> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
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