You need to measure the valve stem to guide 'wiggle' against the book standard, to know if it's at or beyond the wear limit. The valve has to be a certain distance off the seat; per the book. I don't remember these measurements of the top of my head, but you can't judge without measuring. And you're right, they need to be dry for an accurate measurement, the lubricant will take up some of the play. A engine with a new, strong top end has been known to be last straw for a marginal bottom end. You may learn this old lesson first hand soon......... ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Kao" <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 9:03 PM Subject: Re: Engine Replacement Options
>I absolutely agree with you that I took a risk in not doing anything, > not even checking, the short block. The reason was the 83.5 Westy had > only 110K original miles. Most 1.9 WBX engine wore out from the heads > first. Very few had short block problems. I bought the Westy when it > was less than 60k mile young. I knew the history of it pretty well. > I don't think I took too much a risk in assuming that the short block > was OK. > > I have a pair of used AMC heads. It passed my alcohol leak test too. > But when I checked the valve guides they were not as tight as that on > my 83.5 heads. My 83.5 heads were VW OEM and were put on by a VW dealer > only about 20k miles ago. I lapped the valves and checked the guides > before doing the leak test. The guides were amazingly tight still. > So I knew I had an excellent pair of heads to begin with. That's why > I only replaced the cylinder/piston liners. The valve guides of my > used AMC heads are definitely not as tight. If there is oil in the guide > you won't feel a play when wiggle it back and forth. But if it is free > of oil (clean and dry) then I can feel a play when wiggling it. > > I think the heads are still quite usable. But then it may be a question > how long it will last and how well it will work. Nothing beats a new pair > of OEM heads at $1000. If the budget permits that's the way to go. > > David > > > --- Mike <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote: > >> The seating of all the valves is not the only thing that must be >> checked, >> when choosing to rebuild a head. You haven't said that you've removed >> the >> springs to check the valve-stem-to-guide clearances/ wear and cleaning of >> carbon deposits. >> >> > I used alcohol for the leak test. I poured it to the opposite side of >> > the >> > valves and check for sign of leak on the valve stems. Mine had no leak >> > for >> > 3 minutes and possibly longer than that. >> >> >> Removing the rods to replace the rod bearings and take the opportunity >> to >> inspect and measure the crank's rod journals. This may uncover damage >> that'll point to a total overhaul; 'not checking' at this point in the >> disassembly is a mistake. One that may bite you in the ass sooner than >> later. It's not a huge step to go all the way at this point. >> >> > Rebuilding a short block is something I have not tried. >> > >> > David >> >> |
Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of
Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection
will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!
Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com
The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.
Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.