Date:         Mon, 11 Aug 2008 18:46:59 -0500
Reply-To:     Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Engine Replacement Options
Comments: To: Mike <mbucchino@charter.net>
In-Reply-To:  <103101c8fc06$0c17d170$0b00a8c0@mike2d93581d7f>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

To me, if a valve is seating well and sealing well, it means that the
guide must be in pretty good shape. I do think that main and rod
examination is critical to a rebuild. Measurement, too. You can get
all the micrometers you need off ebay for cheap, and cheap inside
telescoping T-gauges lots of places cheap. And plasti-gage. Then
you'll absolutely know whether you are rebuilding junk or a good
engine. You can't get good oil pressure to the head without the right
clearances on the main and rod bearings.

Jim

On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 6:00 PM, Mike <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:
>  The seating of all the valves is not the only thing that must be checked,
> when choosing to rebuild a head.  You haven't said that you've removed the
> springs to check the valve-stem-to-guide clearances/ wear and cleaning of
> carbon deposits.
>
>> I used alcohol for the leak test. I poured it to the opposite side of the
>> valves and check for sign of leak on the valve stems. Mine had no leak for
>> 3 minutes and possibly longer than that.
>
>
>  Removing the rods to replace the rod bearings and take the opportunity to
> inspect and measure the crank's rod journals.  This may uncover damage
> that'll point to a total overhaul; 'not checking' at this point in the
> disassembly is a mistake.  One that may bite you in the ass sooner than
> later.  It's not a huge step to go all the way at this point.
>
>> Rebuilding a short block is something I have not tried.
>>
>> David
>