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Date:         Mon, 11 Aug 2008 18:03:34 -0700
Reply-To:     David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Engine Replacement Options
In-Reply-To:  <103101c8fc06$0c17d170$0b00a8c0@mike2d93581d7f>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I absolutely agree with you that I took a risk in not doing anything, not even checking, the short block. The reason was the 83.5 Westy had only 110K original miles. Most 1.9 WBX engine wore out from the heads first. Very few had short block problems. I bought the Westy when it was less than 60k mile young. I knew the history of it pretty well. I don't think I took too much a risk in assuming that the short block was OK.

I have a pair of used AMC heads. It passed my alcohol leak test too. But when I checked the valve guides they were not as tight as that on my 83.5 heads. My 83.5 heads were VW OEM and were put on by a VW dealer only about 20k miles ago. I lapped the valves and checked the guides before doing the leak test. The guides were amazingly tight still. So I knew I had an excellent pair of heads to begin with. That's why I only replaced the cylinder/piston liners. The valve guides of my used AMC heads are definitely not as tight. If there is oil in the guide you won't feel a play when wiggle it back and forth. But if it is free of oil (clean and dry) then I can feel a play when wiggling it.

I think the heads are still quite usable. But then it may be a question how long it will last and how well it will work. Nothing beats a new pair of OEM heads at $1000. If the budget permits that's the way to go.

David

--- Mike <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:

> The seating of all the valves is not the only thing that must be checked, > when choosing to rebuild a head. You haven't said that you've removed the > springs to check the valve-stem-to-guide clearances/ wear and cleaning of > carbon deposits. > > > I used alcohol for the leak test. I poured it to the opposite side of the > > valves and check for sign of leak on the valve stems. Mine had no leak for > > 3 minutes and possibly longer than that. > > > Removing the rods to replace the rod bearings and take the opportunity to > inspect and measure the crank's rod journals. This may uncover damage > that'll point to a total overhaul; 'not checking' at this point in the > disassembly is a mistake. One that may bite you in the ass sooner than > later. It's not a huge step to go all the way at this point. > > > Rebuilding a short block is something I have not tried. > > > > David > >


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