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Date:         Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:17:43 -0700
Reply-To:     neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Custom exhaust repair questions. PICS
Comments: To: Jim Akiba <syncrolist@bostig.com>
In-Reply-To:  <ac1f198b0808140812p24d02a71x5f5056ad4b703e77@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Good tips. Yah the flex joint is pretty short. The muffler is strapped to 2 brackets on engine but I'll look into longer flex and possibly 2 of them. That and a 4-1 manifold. Something I should have done from the get-go, but thought there would be a performance "hit". Likely I've done more damage to performance with my Frakenstien "Y" collector though it does drive well. (video soon!)

For laughs I might repair this one. I'll know better when I remove it. I can very easily see myself burning a hole on the back side if I patch it, thus rendering the short primaries/Y pretty much useless.

Thanks again Jim.

Neil.

2008/8/14 Jim Akiba <syncrolist@bostig.com>: > Yeah if you have a 4 to 1 option... I'd go that route.. as you likely > know by now, dealing with the one tube instead of two makes life much > easier, will make the assembly more robust, without sacrificing > anything but the work you've done so far. Keep anything that moves > with the engine as tight to the block and as short as possible, and > decouple appropriately to make sure you can stabilize the downpipe > without destroying the flex section every 3 months, so not too > close(welded to the flange would be pushing it, esp since the flex > couplers are fragile from a welding and corrosion standpoint compared > to solid tube), and not too short on the flex. > > Jim Akiba > > > > 2008/8/14 neil N <musomuso@gmail.com>: >> Thanks much for the re-design tips Jim. >> >> I think I get what you're suggesting. >> >> I guess another flex section is in order. >> >> One obviously isn't enough. >> >> I guess I have nothing to lose repairing and bolstering the primaries >> near the flange. >> >> And if I understand your suggestion, would it be best to swap to a 4 >> into 1 exhaust manifold? >> >> And crack pipe? Only if I ever do this kind of conversion again will I >> need one of those --- ;^) >> >> Neil. >> >> 2008/8/13 Jim Akiba <syncrolist@bostig.com>: >>> I looked at the other downpipe pics quickly again, I think you're >>> going to find it is a losing battle with cracking in that location >>> unless you can decouple close to the flange or increase the thickness >>> of the primaries by quite a bit closer to the flange. It's through no >>> fault of the welds really(they appear to be holding) but if you've got >>> all that length and mass on two .049 or .065 wall primaries and they >>> aren't gusseted/braced fully(even then I' bet you'd still have >>> trouble) they will keep on cracking. I would move to a log 2 to 1, and >>> put a flex section in, then worry about stabilizing a single tube >>> downpipe instead of a sort-of longtube setup like you have now. You >>> won't see much of a performance difference between the two in this >>> application, but you will have a much better chance being free of your >>> current crack pipe... ha sorry just had to throw that in. >>> >>> Jim Akiba


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