Thanks Jim for those great details. I am still weighing my options.

R

On Aug 20, 2008, at 4:13 PM, Jim Felder wrote:

> If pulling the engine: > > The stuff on top of the engine doesn't have to be removed if you can > lift it high enough (about 25 inches). > > If you can only lift about 21 inches, take off the alternator, intake > manifold and the thermostat housing. > > This is WITH a furniture dolly underneath, and you can do with just a > piece of carpet or a folded tarp. > > The deal is this... once that stuff's off, the idea is to disconnect > everything leading to the engine. > > Once that's done, you support the engine. Loosen the transmission bolt > in the front mount (you're going to use it as a pivot to swing the > whole affair downward). Remove the two 13mm bolts and nuts that hold > the shift lever rod bracket to the side of the transmission. Lay it > aside. You will not have to readjust anything upon assembly. > > Now remove the five or six bolts that hold the tin above the muffler > to the car body (the rearmost bolts in the whole deal). > > Now remove the four bolts and nuts that hold the "moustache bar) that > goes left and right. Pull the top bolts from the transmission engine > and the two lower nuts off the studs. Slide 'er out and back, then > down. > > Note you don't touch any exhaust bolt till it's on the stand. > > If you're just doing the heads: > > I wouldn't use a drive on ramp as it puts the back of the car so high > it will be uncomfortable to work on unless you stand on something. > > You will need to remove the exhaust system--hardest part, easy only if > all your bolts and studs are still operational. > > Take the tin off the bottom of the pushrod tubes. drain the coolant > out the bolt plugs between the pushrod tubes. don't bend the tubes. > Drain the oil and remove the filter. > > Remove the intake stuff, alternator, PS pump and AC bracket. Remember > which belt goes where and remove them. Hang the AC and PS stuff on a 2 > x 4 hanging over the back seat. > > Remove that big metal black pipe (this is for a 2.1) that goes around > the left side of the engine from the water pump to the thermostat > housing. You'll need a long hex socket to reach it from underneath. > You don't have to do this step, but it's probably worth it. > > Pop the valve covers off. Remove the rockers and pushrods, keep > everything in order so it can go back in the same way. > > Now it's time to remove the heads. Work in the reverse of the > tightening pattern in the bentley. Go a little at a time. > > Hopefully you can get a flat wonderbar blade in between the and the > block at the rubber gasket. Take care, don't ding the soft case of the > soft head. Get the head to move off the cylinders and don't take the > cylinders loose with the head or you'll really be sorry. I have never > had a problem with the head sticking, but many have. > > Pull the heads off over the studs. Have them checked out to see if > you've got anything to replace. > > If they're OK, get your gaskets and a can of The Right Stuff and put > everything back together, following torque sequence and valve > adjustment instructions out of the Bentley or off the list. > > Remember that if you need to remove the distributor at any time, don't > loosen the clamp, remove the nut on the stud. You won't need to > re-time the engine. > > Good luck. > > Jim > > > > On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 1:27 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com > > wrote: >> I would try and do it myself, never tried it before. Can it be done >> with just a set of auto risers that your back the van up onto like >> what they sell at Sears or Walmart? >> >> I assume that everything on the top of the engine needs to be >> removed? >> >> What's the process? >> >> R >> >> >> On Aug 20, 2008, at 12:24 PM, Chris S wrote: >> >>> Is doing the job yourself outside of your capabilities? Gaskets are >>> not >>> that expensive and you can do the job with the engine in the car. >>> If you >>> need new heads, well, that's a bit more. >>> >>> I have a complete 1.9L that has a set of good heads. But, they are >>> original >>> with 170,000 miles on them. >>> >>> Chris S. >>> >>> On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 6:51 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com >>>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi Everyone, >>>> >>>> More on my story... >>>> >>>> My 88 automatic wolfsburg with 237,000 miles on it with a rebuilt >>>> engine at 150,000 miles just had the head gaskets start leaking. >>>> Small >>>> amounts of coolant are coming out. >>>> >>>> I was told it's missing .5 inches on each side of the head. I have >>>> not >>>> verified it yet. >>>> >>>> Please note I just lost my job as dissolved the position and have a >>>> couple months of severance an unemployment insurance coming in, so >>>> cost is a big factor. I cant afford a lot but I want to do the >>>> right >>>> thing. The van has been running fine for the most part and I only >>>> add >>>> about a quarter of the coolant tank every 200 miles. So the leak is >>>> not terrible >>>> >>>> I have been doing some research and here are what appear to be the >>>> options: >>>> >>>> 1. Use something like Bars STOP Leak - Head Gasket Fix WORKS WITH >>>> ALL >>>> TYPES OF ANTIFREEZE! ( >>>> DOES THIS EVEN WORK? >>>> http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm >>>> >>>> >>>> 2. Use something like Permatex on the edge (though I am told this >>>> wont >>>> work it might be temporary fix) >>>> >>>> 3. Remove the engine and have the gaskets replaced $1200-$1500 >>>> >>>> 4. http://www.alumiweld.com ? temporary fix. >>>> >>>> 5. Get a new engine >>>> >>>> >>>> $975 & $190 shipping - Ken Morgan (Jake4parts on ebay) >>>> >>>> I talked to this guy Ken Morgan who sells engines under the name >>>> jake4parts on ebay. He has 2.1 L engine for sale for $975. I know >>>> some >>>> people say that he shady, I am not sure. Spoke to him and he sounds >>>> like a nice guy who is knowledgeble. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1991-VW-Vanagon-Rebuilt-2-1L-Engine-Long-Block_W0QQitemZ320284970269QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320284970269&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A4%7C65%3A10%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14#ebayphotohosting >>>> >>>> "1986 - 1991 VW Vanagon 2.1L Engine Rebuilt (Long Block) Has all >>>> new >>>> bearings, rings and valve job - This engine is completely resealed >>>> with all new head gaskets and crank seals... Built in our shop, >>>> these >>>> engines also comes with all installation gaskets to complete the >>>> installations into your vanagon... Comes with flywheel or flex >>>> plate >>>> - Specify whether you have an automatic or stickshift... >>>> >>>> This engine also fits 83-85 Vanagon waterboxers with a small >>>> modification to the center intake manifold plenum (ask for product >>>> circular)... Comes with a 12mo/12,000mile warranty, technical >>>> bulitens for start-up and break-in as well as selection of motor >>>> oils >>>> for long life and reliability... >>>> >>>> Shipping Flat Rate $190.00 to any major city trucking terminal in >>>> the >>>> Continental USA - For Home delivery or Liftgate truck service add >>>> $96.00" >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Need some help trying to figure out what I should I, finances are >>>> tight. I want to move to California and drive my van there. >>>> >>>> Much appreciated all the ideas that you send my way. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Robert >>>> >>>> NY >>>> >>