Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2008 23:47:33 -0400
Reply-To: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: craig cowan <phishman068@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Black Paint for Mirrors..AND bumpers
In-Reply-To: <48A6485F.8000901@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Automotive paints also have metalics and pearls in them, modern day "paint"
when ready to go on the car, is a mixture of a bunch of different things
(like a splash of pigment, a dash of metalic, a cup of reducer, etc etc etc)
and is all done by computer these days. Pigments alone are (and historically
have been) expensive depending upon the color. I believe Red has always been
the most expensive, and is generally applied the thinnest on modern cars
(you can actuall get a 2008 car with a red paint so thin, you can see the
primer through it in the right light!), and black being the cheapest (Good
PPG Black i think is $40/gallon!). White i believe is cheap as well. It all
adds up though when you start adding metalic, pearl, etc etc etc. I've seen
modern vehicles such as Lexus(s) with a "Tri Coat", essentially 3 different
colors piled atop eachother and then clear coated. If not done just right,
it looks like crap. And it's almost impossible to replicate "just right", so
those cars often have poor paint matching when repaired.
As far as "good Prep" goes, SCRATCH IT UP! You want a clean surface with
zero grease or wax (meaning if you so much as touch it, it's been
corrupted), and it has to be scuffed up to help the paint adhere. Your paint
should be thin enough or leveling enough to fill in said scratches, and the
scratches should also be thin enough. Something such as a soft or ultra soft
scotchbrite pad does well, or something along the lines of 320-400 grit
sandpaper.
Then, go over it with a good solvent. Heck even gasoline works, or rubbing
alcahol, but you want something that leaves no residue and cleans up the
dust and any impurities you left on the surface. Handle with care, and then
paint. Even regular black spray paint varies in quality. The $25/can
bodyshop grade products are REALLY, that much nicer. Self leveling, solid,
fast drying, and very rust proof paints as apposed to your generic "enamel"
you get at the dollar store.
This is the stuff you learn, working as a prepper at a body shop for a few
months....
-Craig
On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 11:24 PM, Mike Elliott <camping.elliott@gmail.com>wrote:
> Mmmm...nitrocellulose lacquer....
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>
>
> On 8/15/2008 7:38 PM Jake de Villiers wrote:
>
> The pro paints are more costly to make - pricier ingredients, more
>> costly safety measures, more & longer procedures in the batch process.
>> Many of them are now 2 part paints and when you smell them, you can tell
>> how dangerous they are in one sniff.
>>
>> I did the grey van's roof in a PPG 2 part coating and it makes old
>> fashioned nitrocellulose lacquer seem like health food!
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 7:02 PM, Mike Elliott <camping.elliott@gmail.com
>> <mailto:camping.elliott@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> B-but, are polymers, UC protectorants, and UV-stable pigments so very
>> expensive? Surely the consumer isn't paying a premium because the stuff
>> is nasty -- that should not raise the cost a cent.
>>
>> Again -- not challenging, just curious.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>>
>> 84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
>> 74 Utility Trailer. Ladybug Trailer, Inc., San Juan Capistrano
>> KG6RCR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jake
>> 1984 Vanagon GL
>> 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
>> Crescent Beach, BC
>> www.crescentbeachguitar.com <http://www.crescentbeachguitar.com>
>> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>>
>
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