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Date:         Sun, 17 Aug 2008 14:52:16 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

yes, I hear you on the plenum fitment. notching or bending the tab by the distributor helps. and yes, .........it would be far better not to touch that case bolt at the flywheel end. and yes, the flywheel sensor is in the way, but we don't use those................so I break those off flush sometimes.

they sure coulda made that lower alternator bolt easier I must say. I've seen lots of those Mickey-moused. and the carraage bolt idea is nice...........but it's a bear to thread the thing though there from the front etc.

the engineers who designed it were very lame about making it easy to work on. the water pump in particular, is really hard in the car. Just dumb design. scott

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> To: "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> Cc: <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:07 PM Subject: Re: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!

> Scott, > > I learned that the intake system comes right out and makes the > alternator and AC all that much easier to get to. But getting the > plenum onto its stupid mounting points is ridiculous, especially when > you consider that the rear one is actually a flywheel-end main bearing > stud nut, and badly needs torquing. Getting a socket past the flywheel > pickup is difficult even with the engine out of the car! Dumb! > > One thing I've done--don't remember how the car was manufactured--is > to install the alternator with the bolt coming out toward the back of > the car. Once the parts are aligned with a tapered drift, The bolt can > be tapped in with a long stick through the license plate hatch. It can > be pried out to remove it because you can get a tool up under the > head. > > Thanks for the trick with the two jacks. I used 4x4 sections to get > the back as high as I did on this removal. A while back, before I got > the jack I have now, I cut up a stack of plywood big enough for the > jack to operate on. This platform gave it enough lift to raise a > vanagon, but it was a pain to do. > > Jim > > > On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 3:39 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans > <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: >> the trick is to have two floor jacks. >> then................when you do lower the engine and it's too tall to get >> out from under the rear bumper ......... >> you use the other jack, with a large block of wood on it if necessary to >> enable it to go higher..........to temporally raise the van high enough >> to >> get the engine out from underneath. >> >> I read the trick of, for engine removal, removing the intake system >> first, >> then the alternator, with the engine in the car. Two advantages to >> doing >> that.....makes getting at the alternator lower pivot bolt easier, and the >> engine less tall for getting out from underneath the van. >> >> and it's a lot nicer to install all that stuff onto the engine out of the >> van .....so kinda a toss up . >> But having two floor jacks.............makes a huge difference. >> Scott >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> >> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> >> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:04 AM >> Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list! >> >> >>> Let me correct something I said in the original post... it is the >>> easiest to R&R that I can remember. But then comes hooking everything >>> up! That takes a long time. The way the engine goes in, with >>> everything already mounted to it, is pretty cool. >>> >>> The deal is, how high do you want to lift the car? Assuming you're >>> going to use a furniture dolly, like I did, then if you already have >>> the oil tower and thermostat housing mounted they are the same height, >>> that will require a 23 inch clearance in the back. >>> >>> If you left those off till the engine was in the car, you could get by >>> with about a 19 inch clearance. >>> >>> I waited until the engine was back in the car to install the AC >>> compressor, intake setup, and alternator. Next time I'd like to do >>> that in the engine stand and spend only about two hours hooking >>> everything up once the engine was in rather than the six hours I spent >>> this time. It will require about 26 inches of clearance, beyond the >>> capability of my current jack. >>> >>> Really, it is an easy engine to get in and out except for the "stuff." >>> >>> Jim >> >>


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