Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:38:23 -0400
Reply-To: Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine repair or replacement?
In-Reply-To: <4d1b79350808201313n4564ab79y661f401d3fa693cd@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
Thanks Jim for those great details. I am still weighing my options.
R
On Aug 20, 2008, at 4:13 PM, Jim Felder wrote:
> If pulling the engine:
>
> The stuff on top of the engine doesn't have to be removed if you can
> lift it high enough (about 25 inches).
>
> If you can only lift about 21 inches, take off the alternator, intake
> manifold and the thermostat housing.
>
> This is WITH a furniture dolly underneath, and you can do with just a
> piece of carpet or a folded tarp.
>
> The deal is this... once that stuff's off, the idea is to disconnect
> everything leading to the engine.
>
> Once that's done, you support the engine. Loosen the transmission bolt
> in the front mount (you're going to use it as a pivot to swing the
> whole affair downward). Remove the two 13mm bolts and nuts that hold
> the shift lever rod bracket to the side of the transmission. Lay it
> aside. You will not have to readjust anything upon assembly.
>
> Now remove the five or six bolts that hold the tin above the muffler
> to the car body (the rearmost bolts in the whole deal).
>
> Now remove the four bolts and nuts that hold the "moustache bar) that
> goes left and right. Pull the top bolts from the transmission engine
> and the two lower nuts off the studs. Slide 'er out and back, then
> down.
>
> Note you don't touch any exhaust bolt till it's on the stand.
>
> If you're just doing the heads:
>
> I wouldn't use a drive on ramp as it puts the back of the car so high
> it will be uncomfortable to work on unless you stand on something.
>
> You will need to remove the exhaust system--hardest part, easy only if
> all your bolts and studs are still operational.
>
> Take the tin off the bottom of the pushrod tubes. drain the coolant
> out the bolt plugs between the pushrod tubes. don't bend the tubes.
> Drain the oil and remove the filter.
>
> Remove the intake stuff, alternator, PS pump and AC bracket. Remember
> which belt goes where and remove them. Hang the AC and PS stuff on a 2
> x 4 hanging over the back seat.
>
> Remove that big metal black pipe (this is for a 2.1) that goes around
> the left side of the engine from the water pump to the thermostat
> housing. You'll need a long hex socket to reach it from underneath.
> You don't have to do this step, but it's probably worth it.
>
> Pop the valve covers off. Remove the rockers and pushrods, keep
> everything in order so it can go back in the same way.
>
> Now it's time to remove the heads. Work in the reverse of the
> tightening pattern in the bentley. Go a little at a time.
>
> Hopefully you can get a flat wonderbar blade in between the and the
> block at the rubber gasket. Take care, don't ding the soft case of the
> soft head. Get the head to move off the cylinders and don't take the
> cylinders loose with the head or you'll really be sorry. I have never
> had a problem with the head sticking, but many have.
>
> Pull the heads off over the studs. Have them checked out to see if
> you've got anything to replace.
>
> If they're OK, get your gaskets and a can of The Right Stuff and put
> everything back together, following torque sequence and valve
> adjustment instructions out of the Bentley or off the list.
>
> Remember that if you need to remove the distributor at any time, don't
> loosen the clamp, remove the nut on the stud. You won't need to
> re-time the engine.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 1:27 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com
> > wrote:
>> I would try and do it myself, never tried it before. Can it be done
>> with just a set of auto risers that your back the van up onto like
>> what they sell at Sears or Walmart?
>>
>> I assume that everything on the top of the engine needs to be
>> removed?
>>
>> What's the process?
>>
>> R
>>
>>
>> On Aug 20, 2008, at 12:24 PM, Chris S wrote:
>>
>>> Is doing the job yourself outside of your capabilities? Gaskets are
>>> not
>>> that expensive and you can do the job with the engine in the car.
>>> If you
>>> need new heads, well, that's a bit more.
>>>
>>> I have a complete 1.9L that has a set of good heads. But, they are
>>> original
>>> with 170,000 miles on them.
>>>
>>> Chris S.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 6:51 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com
>>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>>
>>>> More on my story...
>>>>
>>>> My 88 automatic wolfsburg with 237,000 miles on it with a rebuilt
>>>> engine at 150,000 miles just had the head gaskets start leaking.
>>>> Small
>>>> amounts of coolant are coming out.
>>>>
>>>> I was told it's missing .5 inches on each side of the head. I have
>>>> not
>>>> verified it yet.
>>>>
>>>> Please note I just lost my job as dissolved the position and have a
>>>> couple months of severance an unemployment insurance coming in, so
>>>> cost is a big factor. I cant afford a lot but I want to do the
>>>> right
>>>> thing. The van has been running fine for the most part and I only
>>>> add
>>>> about a quarter of the coolant tank every 200 miles. So the leak is
>>>> not terrible
>>>>
>>>> I have been doing some research and here are what appear to be the
>>>> options:
>>>>
>>>> 1. Use something like Bars STOP Leak - Head Gasket Fix WORKS WITH
>>>> ALL
>>>> TYPES OF ANTIFREEZE! (
>>>> DOES THIS EVEN WORK?
>>>> http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2. Use something like Permatex on the edge (though I am told this
>>>> wont
>>>> work it might be temporary fix)
>>>>
>>>> 3. Remove the engine and have the gaskets replaced $1200-$1500
>>>>
>>>> 4. http://www.alumiweld.com ? temporary fix.
>>>>
>>>> 5. Get a new engine
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> $975 & $190 shipping - Ken Morgan (Jake4parts on ebay)
>>>>
>>>> I talked to this guy Ken Morgan who sells engines under the name
>>>> jake4parts on ebay. He has 2.1 L engine for sale for $975. I know
>>>> some
>>>> people say that he shady, I am not sure. Spoke to him and he sounds
>>>> like a nice guy who is knowledgeble.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1991-VW-Vanagon-Rebuilt-2-1L-Engine-Long-Block_W0QQitemZ320284970269QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320284970269&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A4%7C65%3A10%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14#ebayphotohosting
>>>>
>>>> "1986 - 1991 VW Vanagon 2.1L Engine Rebuilt (Long Block) Has all
>>>> new
>>>> bearings, rings and valve job - This engine is completely resealed
>>>> with all new head gaskets and crank seals... Built in our shop,
>>>> these
>>>> engines also comes with all installation gaskets to complete the
>>>> installations into your vanagon... Comes with flywheel or flex
>>>> plate
>>>> - Specify whether you have an automatic or stickshift...
>>>>
>>>> This engine also fits 83-85 Vanagon waterboxers with a small
>>>> modification to the center intake manifold plenum (ask for product
>>>> circular)... Comes with a 12mo/12,000mile warranty, technical
>>>> bulitens for start-up and break-in as well as selection of motor
>>>> oils
>>>> for long life and reliability...
>>>>
>>>> Shipping Flat Rate $190.00 to any major city trucking terminal in
>>>> the
>>>> Continental USA - For Home delivery or Liftgate truck service add
>>>> $96.00"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Need some help trying to figure out what I should I, finances are
>>>> tight. I want to move to California and drive my van there.
>>>>
>>>> Much appreciated all the ideas that you send my way.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Robert
>>>>
>>>> NY
>>>>
>>
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