Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 15:42:45 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine Replacement or Gasket Fix?
In-Reply-To: <175854.5322.qm@web82705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Not so. My 2.1 got hot and I had to replace the thermostat housing. It
was melted like you wouldn't believe.
The cylinder heads and pistons were not melted, but the wrist pins
were blue, so I threw it all away and replaced with good used for my
rebuild. If it gets that hot, you can't trust the studs, the pistons,
or the cylinders. I know someone who rebuilt a 2.1 that had been that
hot and re-used they cylinders and pistons because they "measured
good" and they have never gotten that thing to quit burning oil.
Jim
On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 2:56 PM, David Kao <dtkao0205@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I think it is corossion. I don't think anything is melted.
> To melt a thermostat housing the pistons and the cylinder heads
> had to be melted first. Seeing on the picture and seeing the real
> thing can be very different. So this is just my opinion.
>
> David
>
>
> --- Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM> wrote:
>
>> So no responses to the photo's? or the other questions?
>>
>> R
>>
>> On Aug 22, 2008, at 3:17 PM, Robert Stewart wrote:
>>
>> > I took some shots of the engine underneath so you can the leaks, its
>> > much worse on the left side of the van. The right one appears minor.
>> >
>> > To refresh this a 2.1 L auto, Wolfsburg edition. Mobil1 15/50 oil
>> > synthetic used for over 3 yrs now. Prestone Phosphate free coolant.
>> > Transmission was rebuilt 2 years ago.
>> >
>> > The thermostat housing edges started to melt at the edge where it
>> > meets the body of the engine, so I am replacing that. You will photo's
>> > of what I mean below:
>> >
>> > http://gallery.me.com/rmstewart#100072
>> >
>> > It sound as thought from what Dennis said that a compression test
>> > might still be a good idea just to gauge the health of the engine. I
>> > was told it takes an hour to do, correct?
>> >
>> > The fuel lines were replaced by the previous owner but I was going to
>> > them as well just to be safe, as some will remember that is how I lost
>> > my first Van in December of 2001 next to Rockefeller center in NYC.
>> >
>> > The other issue the powersteering pump has the connector on it to be
>> > connected to something and I can't find anything in the engine bay
>> > that looks remotely disconnected and hanging. I am completely at a
>> > loss.
>> >
>> > If I do the job with a mechanic I think it will be with the place that
>> > opened up as they seem the most pro and have someone locally that do
>> > the head resurfacing if needed.
>> >
>> > Still undecided on the next steps.
>> >
>> > R
>> >
>> > On Aug 22, 2008, at 2:32 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>> >
>> >> Depends on the brand of new head.
>> >> I'm not impressed with AMC heads and have a flat 'wrong' with about
>> >> 10,000
>> >> miles on it - dimensionally, it's off significantly concerning the
>> >> outer
>> >> water gasket.
>> >>
>> >> I much prefer good used heads gone through.
>> >> what do you mean by 'machined' ??
>> >>
>> >> If you mean new valves and guides, or knurled guides and cleaned up
>> >> valves..........that's generally called a 'valve job' and not
>> >> 'machined'.
>> >> As long as valve guides fit tightly ..........
>> >> a head can be brought back to spec numerous times.
>> >> There are valve guides that are oversize on the outside so they'll
>> >> fit
>> >> tightly like they should, should that be needed.
>> >> It's possible to replace valve seats too.
>> >> my point is...........sure, they can only last through so many valve
>> >> jobs,
>> >> but they can take several valve jobs unless cracked etc.
>> >> And yes, of course, it's VERY possible for a machine shop to do it
>> >> wrong.
>> >> You bethcha !!
>> >>
>> >> There is also resurfacing them on the flat bottom part, and then
>> >> taking a
>> >> like amount of material from the combustion chamber area, and
>> >> checking/adjusting the 'step distance' between those two spots -
>> >> which
>> >> determines the how much the outer water gasket gets compressed.
>> >> And that dimension is a funky area. And that's what is WAY off
>> >> about the
>> >> near-new AMC head I have still.
>> >>
>> >> You ask about reconditioned heads - I think it was TRW ........might
>> >> have
>> >> been.........
>> >> back when I worked on air-cooled VW's. Those were notorious for
>> >> being
>> >> funky. Perhaps it was for Type IV air-cooled engines - valve seats
>> >> falling
>> >> out or whatever. So I'm not so sure I like out of the box rebuilt
>> >> heads,
>> >> but that's an option for sure.
>> >>
>> >> I much prefer to take a decent of good used heads to a machine shop,
>> >> and
>> >> have them do good valve work to it.
>> >> I've not bothered with waterboxer heads, but there is also getting
>> >> them
>> >> pressure tested .....to check for cracks and places coolant might
>> >> sneak to
>> >> someplace it's not supposed to be.
>> >>
>> >> These $ 1000 new heads. Is that VW OEM ?
>> >> Those I might be inclined to like.
>> >> But normally...........it's good VW heads, to a good machine shop -
>> >> is what
>> >> I prefer.
>> >> Scott
>> >> www.turbovans.com
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> if too small, the rubber gasket pinches. ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: "B Feddish" <bfeddish@NETREACH.NET>
>> >> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> >> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 5:38 AM
>> >> Subject: New vs. machined heads, a spinnoff of Engine Replacement or
>> >> Gasket
>> >> Fix?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> I'm going to be in the same situation as Robert this winter and
>> >>> I'll be
>> >>> having my 1.9 rebuilt. One of the big expenses appears to be the
>> >>> heads.
>> >>> What is the advantage of buying new heads, vs, reconditioned heads
>> >>> vs.
>> >>> having a machine shop do them? Let's say my current engine has
>> >>> gone 80K
>> >>> miles on it's last set of machined heads. That was fine with me as
>> >>> the
>> >>> rebuild was dirt cheap. Am I only getting longetivity with new
>> >>> heads or
>> >>> are
>> >>> they much more reliable? Can the machine shop do it "wrong"? Are
>> >>> reconditioned ones a good compromise?
>> >>>
>> >>> Heads come up allot here and I'm trying to determine if that extra
>> >>> $1000
>> >>> expense is worth it if I'm fine with my next rebuilt not being able
>> >>> to
>> >>> make
>> >>> it to 200K.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks,
>> >>> Bryan
>>
>
|