Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (September 2008, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 11 Sep 2008 14:44:50 -0400
Reply-To:     "Jack R." <jack007@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Jack R." <jack007@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Question about temp II sensor and bad running
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <4d1b79350809111115r21d9118pedb2d923929a86f4@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Jim,

Maybe the bad alternator and resulting intermittent voltage issues you had last month led to the failure of the ECU?

Jack R.

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Jim Felder Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 2:15 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Question about temp II sensor and bad running

Here's another clue: when the car runs rough enough for long enough, it starts running so rich that it spits unburnt gas out the exhaust. If you shut it off and start the car again, it runs smoothly and then gets rougher.

Could this be the temp II or part of that circuit?

Why is there a 30 second or so delay from startup to bad running? How could this be consistent? It roars to life like the new engine that it is. Then it starts running worse and worse until it quits.

It's not the cool temp sensor. This usually > leads to poor warm up but good running when hot.

Is this the temp 2 sensor?

> > Also, I have had O2 sensors short out internally, melting wires . I now have > the O2 fused. > > Aside from wires , connections, the AFM can do this. I was being stranded at > bvarious places for several days until I reoplaced the bad AFM.

Why the 30 second delay and then strong start?

The gas is running fine, far as I can tell. The problem is rich running, not lean.

??

Jim > > When a Digifant system stalls, or runs rough, spark quality should first be > tested. > You should crank the motor with a spark plug out and look at the spark. Is > it white/blue? > or is a orange? > Orange is a sign of weak spark-bad coil. > Coils do burn out over time. > The hall sender sully burns out all at once, but you can sometimes here is > arcing when turning the key off and on. > Do you smell gas? You can brideg the fuel pump relay with a jumper to hear > if the pmp is running smooth. > > > The ECU. yes, the Digifant and Digijet both burn out. I sell these as soon > as I list them on Ebay. > > It could also be a crudded up idle stabilizer. Of course, any replacements > should be one at a time, only after making sure everything is adjusted > properly. > > Robert > 1982 Westfalia > > --- On Thu, 9/11/08, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> > Subject: Question about temp II sensor and bad running > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Date: Thursday, September 11, 2008, 10:18 AM > > I'm starting a new thread on this because I am desperate to get the > van running... wife doesn't have a car without it right now. > > In the earlier threads I started on this subject, I had the car > stranded at walmart. Removed the distributor for examination and when > I went back this morning, it started right up... meaning that > something in the car cooled down and the start was a coincidence or > else fiddling with the distributor connection solved the no-start > problem. > > Then another problem appeared or else there was a related problem I > don't get. The car ran great for less than a minute and then started > running horribly. I barely made it home two miles away with a spot or > two of running great, but mostly horribly. > > I have started it many times through the morning and afternoon. Same > thing always happens: starts great, runs strong, 30 seconds or a > minute later it's stumbling and then it stalls. I can do this until > the engine gets warm or let it cool and try it, the same thing > happens. > > I removed the wires to the temp II sensor and jumpered the sensor > connections. No change. I removed the jumper. No change. > > Ken Lewis has written and says it may yet be the hall effect sensor or > the ECU, but I don't understand how a bad connection or failed sensor > could create such a predictable situation of starting and then running > more and more poorly until a stall. Maybe it could, but I don't get > how. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks for hanging in there with me, > > Jim > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.