Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 22:42:44 -0700
Reply-To: Keith Hughes <keithahughes@QWEST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Keith Hughes <keithahughes@QWEST.NET>
Subject: Re: Cruise Control
In-Reply-To: <20080914024118.25761E0401@mpls-mf-04.inet.qwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Jim,
> Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:31:09 -0700
> From: Jim Cochran <mxsailor@GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: Re: Cruise Control
>
> Hi List,
> I've ordered the Audiovox CSS100 version cruise control and will pick =20=
> it up next week when I'm in the US. Meanwhile, researching the =20
> installation and I found a couple of things I'd like to clear up.
> the12volt.com says this about my 86 Westy:
>
> 1986-92 Volkswagen Vanagon Cruise Control Wiring Information
> Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake
> Switched 12V+ Black Ignition Switch Harness
> Ground Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module
> Hot Side of Brake n/a Brake Switch
> Cold Side of Brake Red/Yellow Brake Switch
> Tach Green Coil
> VSS Wire n/a =09
> Pulses Per Mile 8000 PPM
> Notes: Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some =20
> vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/=20
> adapters not listed above. Rostra=AE Cruise Control module switch =20
> settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and =20=
> a pick up coil.
>
Rostra??? I think you got on the *wrong* track here. These wiring
instructions you list are *Totally* wrong. Just look at page 3 of the
manual you provide the link to. You'll need to review that page
carefully. BTW, the Audiovox instructions are *pitiful*. You also
don't need any clutch switch, because the CCS100 has a rev limiter
feature that will disconnect when it over-revs.
> This states there's no VSS wire. Is that true?
>
True. The Vanagon has no VSS. You can install the magnet package
(provided) but it's not necessary.
> Also, the Audiovox website has the installation manual available for =20
> PDF download at
> http://tinyurl.com/6e6zd
While my install was with a Tiico, there is no difference except for the
throttle connection, and the location for the servo. Some other notes
that might help in your install:
Additional install comments:
1. Made wiring harness from 30' roles of 5 different colored wire -
couldn't find brown so I used black,
and I used blue for purple. Used 24' of the plastic 3/8" split conduit.
Ran the conduit out the throttle
cable penetration (in the engine compartment) and followed the A/C lines
up to the front and alongside
the drivers side of the radiator/condenser. I have *dealer* installed
A/C, so your hose routing, if you have
it, may be different.
2. I brought the wires in through the speedo cable grommet.
3. I connected the brake wires in parallel with the two brake light
switches under the instrument cluster.
4. The light connection was teed into the blue/white instrument cluster
wire at the headlight switch. I added quick disconnect plugs to both
the light connection wires, and the control pad wires to make removing
the instrument cluster easier while leaving the
control pad in place.
5. I made a Y-pigtail for the negative side of the coil to plug in the
Blue wire in the engine
compartment. (Tiico harness - just need connector to negative post)
6. The cable attachment bracket had to have one hole enlarged to fit
with the Tiico cable bracket, and the
cable adjuster bracket had an extra hole drilled in it for a second
bolt, just to keep the thing from
twisting.
7. Vacuum line was tee'd into the FP regulator line, and appears to
cause no problems. If you mount the
actuator as I did, you'll need an additional couple feet of vacuum line.
8. Actuator was mounted with one mounting hole over the air box locator
pin (from the WBX), and I drilled
a second hole for one of the supplied lag screws. The actuator bracket
can be turned several ways to allow
for different mounting options.
9. For the throttle connection, I fabricated a 3/16" clevis pin, drilled
through the cable wheel, and
connected using the shorter of the two supplied loop cables.
10. When programming the actuator, you need to remove the black jumper
(per instructions) if you have a
standard trans. I've programmed mine as follows:
Dipswitch
1 Off
2 On PPM set to "5000"
3 Off Tach only
4 Off
5 Off Medium Sensitivity
6 Off Normally Open switch
7 On Coil tach source
It's worth noting that with the PPM set to "4000", the unit would not
function, at all, above about 40 MPH,
so you may have to fiddle a little to tune it in.
The unit also has a "fail safe" feature to ensure that the brake light
circuit is OK, and it does this by measuring the Purple wire (from brake
light negative terminal) resistance to ground. It it's higher than
about 5 ohms, it 'sees' this as a circuit fault, and won't engage.
Normally not a problem unless you have LED brake lights installed, or
you have corroded brake light bulbs/sockets. The instructions for the
unit are horrible, and the troubleshooting guide doesn't mention the
grounding situation. Found that out the hard way....
Keith Hughes
'86 Westy Tiico (Marvin)
