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Date:         Sun, 14 Sep 2008 11:39:14 -0400
Reply-To:     Mike <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Cruise Control
Comments: To: Keith Hughes <keithahughes@QWEST.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=response

I put this unit into my '87 auto Westy. I agree, the manual that comes with the unit is utterly pitiful, and difficult to use. The earlier VW's have no VSS pickup or wiring, so it's not an option, but it would be easier and better. The coil green wire is your tach speed signal instead. If you use this, you get the high RPM cruise cutoff, so you don't need the cltuch pedal cut-off switch. But, you're 'speed'=setting is less accurate, as it's tied to engine rpm, which on my automatic can vary due to the torque converter/ load/ over-run downhill, etc. The manual has no slippage (hopefully!), so that's not a big issue. The CV joint magnetic pickup is better at maintaining a more steady speed on an automatic, but if used on the manual trans, it would need a clutch switch to disengage cruise, to prevent accidental over-revving. If you decide not to use the magnetic pickup, I need one so let me know. I'm having trouble with mine kicking out of cruise, when wired to the coil, and would like to try the axle pickup to see if it works better. My 'ebay' kit was robbed of that module (without them letting me know this little fact!). Maybe the PPM setting is what's wrong with mine. I did set it as per the pitiful instructions, tho..... Maybe it's the high-resistance brake light circuits; I'll have to check. Is there a way to bypass this 'fail-safe' feature, by going directly to ground, or power with one of those brake light wires? Do not tee into the brake vacuum line with the large plastic tee provided in the kit. Now, they say, NEVER cut into the brake line, it's unsafe and maybe even dangerous, especially if the plastic tee cracks, as mine did upon installation (I found this out the hard way, too!). Also, mounting the unit too close to the sparkplug wires or coil can cause it to kick out, also, due to RF interferences. They also say not to mount it on the engine itself due to vibration frequencies messing with it's fragile mind. Unless you have a tiico engine, you can't mount the servo control unit where Keith did. I'm still looking for a better place to mount mine (it's currently bolted to the top trans/ engine bolt; too close to the coil and sparkplug wires, and 'on the engine') What to do? Not many good places to put it...........

Mike B.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Hughes" <keithahughes@QWEST.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 1:42 AM Subject: Re: Cruise Control

> Jim, >> Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:31:09 -0700 >> From: Jim Cochran <mxsailor@GMAIL.COM> >> Subject: Re: Cruise Control >> >> Hi List, >> I've ordered the Audiovox CSS100 version cruise control and will pick >> =20= >> it up next week when I'm in the US. Meanwhile, researching the =20 >> installation and I found a couple of things I'd like to clear up. >> the12volt.com says this about my 86 Westy: >> >> 1986-92 Volkswagen Vanagon Cruise Control Wiring Information >> Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake >> Switched 12V+ Black Ignition Switch Harness >> Ground Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module >> Hot Side of Brake n/a Brake Switch >> Cold Side of Brake Red/Yellow Brake Switch >> Tach Green Coil >> VSS Wire n/a =09 >> Pulses Per Mile 8000 PPM >> Notes: Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some =20 >> vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/=20 >> adapters not listed above. Rostra=AE Cruise Control module switch =20 >> settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and >> =20= >> a pick up coil. >> > Rostra??? I think you got on the *wrong* track here. These wiring > instructions you list are *Totally* wrong. Just look at page 3 of the > manual you provide the link to. You'll need to review that page > carefully. BTW, the Audiovox instructions are *pitiful*. You also > don't need any clutch switch, because the CCS100 has a rev limiter > feature that will disconnect when it over-revs. >> This states there's no VSS wire. Is that true? >> > True. The Vanagon has no VSS. You can install the magnet package > (provided) but it's not necessary. >> Also, the Audiovox website has the installation manual available for =20 >> PDF download at >> http://tinyurl.com/6e6zd > While my install was with a Tiico, there is no difference except for the > throttle connection, and the location for the servo. Some other notes > that might help in your install: > > > Additional install comments: > > 1. Made wiring harness from 30' roles of 5 different colored wire - > couldn't find brown so I used black, > and I used blue for purple. Used 24' of the plastic 3/8" split conduit. > Ran the conduit out the throttle > cable penetration (in the engine compartment) and followed the A/C lines > up to the front and alongside > the drivers side of the radiator/condenser. I have *dealer* installed > A/C, so your hose routing, if you have > it, may be different. > > 2. I brought the wires in through the speedo cable grommet. > > 3. I connected the brake wires in parallel with the two brake light > switches under the instrument cluster. > > 4. The light connection was teed into the blue/white instrument cluster > wire at the headlight switch. I added quick disconnect plugs to both > the light connection wires, and the control pad wires to make removing > the instrument cluster easier while leaving the > control pad in place. > > 5. I made a Y-pigtail for the negative side of the coil to plug in the > Blue wire in the engine > compartment. (Tiico harness - just need connector to negative post) > > 6. The cable attachment bracket had to have one hole enlarged to fit > with the Tiico cable bracket, and the > cable adjuster bracket had an extra hole drilled in it for a second > bolt, just to keep the thing from > twisting. > > 7. Vacuum line was tee'd into the FP regulator line, and appears to > cause no problems. If you mount the > actuator as I did, you'll need an additional couple feet of vacuum line. > > 8. Actuator was mounted with one mounting hole over the air box locator > pin (from the WBX), and I drilled > a second hole for one of the supplied lag screws. The actuator bracket > can be turned several ways to allow > for different mounting options. > > 9. For the throttle connection, I fabricated a 3/16" clevis pin, drilled > through the cable wheel, and > connected using the shorter of the two supplied loop cables. > > 10. When programming the actuator, you need to remove the black jumper > (per instructions) if you have a > standard trans. I've programmed mine as follows: > > Dipswitch > > 1 Off > 2 On PPM set to "5000" > 3 Off Tach only > 4 Off > 5 Off Medium Sensitivity > 6 Off Normally Open switch > 7 On Coil tach source > > It's worth noting that with the PPM set to "4000", the unit would not > function, at all, above about 40 MPH, > so you may have to fiddle a little to tune it in. > > The unit also has a "fail safe" feature to ensure that the brake light > circuit is OK, and it does this by measuring the Purple wire (from brake > light negative terminal) resistance to ground. It it's higher than > about 5 ohms, it 'sees' this as a circuit fault, and won't engage. > Normally not a problem unless you have LED brake lights installed, or > you have corroded brake light bulbs/sockets. The instructions for the > unit are horrible, and the troubleshooting guide doesn't mention the > grounding situation. Found that out the hard way.... > > Keith Hughes > '86 Westy Tiico (Marvin)


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