Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (October 2008, week 1)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 5 Oct 2008 17:33:59 -0400
Reply-To:     Kim Brennan <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Kim Brennan <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Subject:      Re: Fridge again....
Comments: To: Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <vanagon%2008100515472322@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Well, the amber light staying on, instead of blinking is a big clue. The blinking indicates sparking, no blinking, no sparking.

In my experience this can be caused by too low voltage (check your battery.) See if it will blink when the engine is running, which should be putting out enough voltage to allow it to get lit.)

Another possibilities is that the ignitor (not the sparker) itself has gone bad. I just recently replaced mine (on my 91). It was visibly damaged so I knew it was time to replace it. To get at the ignitor (or sparker) you will need to pull the fridge to inspect.

On Oct 5, 2008, at 3:45 PM, Stu Schwartz wrote:

> BTW.. I have checked "Reefer Madness" - great article...doesn't > necessarily help yet....I also checked the archives and vanagon.com... > > Can't get it to light on propane...with a catch. > Symptoms... > > 1. Refrigerator works on AC > 2. Don't know about battery/DC > 3. When following the starting instructions...there is one > instruction that says the amber light will blink when you turn on > the gas button. Mine doesn't blink, it > comes on and stays on. BTW...it used to blink a couple of years > ago. Since then I had an electrical problem and the RV place > "fixed" the electric > problem...possibly causing this problem. Also, the fridge didn't > work with propane before this electrical problme either. > > I plan on executing the following before removing the fridge ( have > already done 1 and 2, however): > > 1. Try wildly pumping the air supply pump at least 30 times before > pressing > the button that supplies LP gas to the refrigerator. This will > ensure there > is oxygen there for ignition when the refrigerator needs it. If you > press the > LP gas supply button too soon the LP Gas can push away Oxygen that > you need > for ignition to occur. > > 2. Try alternatively pushing the air supply pump/ignite plunger (far > left) in > all the way over and over again as you press the gas supply button. > Each time > the plunger goes all the way in you can hear a noise as it sends a > spark into > the combustion chamber. Who knows, one of the sparks might light. > > 3. Try breathing or pushing air into the little metal drainage tube > that > comes underneath the refrigerator to its front left bottom. > Alternatively, > try sucking air out of this metal tube, into your mouth, and then > push the > air from your mouth without inhaling any of it. (You will usually > notice > smoke was in there, which was preventing ignition.) This tube is > capped by a > little screw on metal plug on the end of a tiny chain, which you > unscrew. > Blowing air into this little tube may disturb debris in the combustion > chamber which is impeding proper operation. It will also cause > Oxygen to > enter the chamber to make combustion work better. When you're done, > screw the > little cap back on this little pipe to avoid problems with water > draining > onto the floor, or the flame blowing out while you drive. > > I have a Bently manual which shows how to remove the fridge starting > with section 76.24. > Any parts to be worried about that I need to be extra careful with? > Are there any tools I should have beyond a standard set of > screwdrivers, socket wrenches, etc? > How long should it take me given that I am not very handy and I have > never worked on this before? > Should I get help or can one person do it? > Obviously the blue light cannot be seen easily inside the fridge, > but can I depend on the monitor light on the front panel of the > cabinet (under the water > levels) to tell the true story...i.e if it's lit then the fridge is > working on propane? (under the water level) > > I live in the Denver area...do any of you local folks want to help > with the fridge? :) I'll set up a day for the work and we can work > it out together? Even if > you are a novice, I wouldn't mind...2 heads, etc. > > --peace-- > stu


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.