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Date:         Sun, 5 Oct 2008 16:11:42 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Broken Bolt on Fuel Rail-Help
Comments: To: Michael Sullivan <sandwichhead@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

that's the very last thing you want to have happen. ...........is an easy-out ( or a drill bit ) break off in the work, since those are made of hardened steel. Until you can find a good used pair of intake runners for that side ( 2.1 and 1.9 are different in diameter - so be sure to get the 2.1 one, either side will work I believe ) ............maybe you can use screw clamps to clamp something to the intake runners that will 'reach over' and hold the injectors in some. I don't think they need a lot of pressure on them, just some slight pressure to keep them there. They're not under pressure or anything, the engine is trying to suck them inward. Scott www.turbovans.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Sullivan" <sandwichhead@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 8:02 AM Subject: Re: Broken Bolt on Fuel Rail-Help

> OK...Thanks for the advice. At this point, I drilled into the broken bolt > and inserted a screw-out from Napa. Tapped it in and used a vise grip to > back it out...then the screw-out broke in the hole!!!!!!. Am now trying > to > drill out the screw out. *&^#$@ > > On Sun, Oct 5, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Craig Morton > <rangermorton1972@yahoo.com>wrote: > >> Hey Michael; >> >> I hope you are doing better and are laying off the foods that caused you >> grief recently. >> >> I have a bit (pun intended) of experience with removing broken bolts. I >> can >> think of several techniques that have worked. Perhaps you can find >> something >> that will help among them. 1. You could use a left-hand drill. These >> drills >> are turned in the opposite to normal direction and this is the direction >> that might unscrew the broken bolt. These are available if you seek them >> from the right sources. 2. Drill with a normal drill. You do want a high >> quality drill. It sounds like you may have bought cheap ones. HSS is >> minimum >> in quality. It should also be sharp and you should begin the hole by >> center >> punching so the hole is dead-center of the broken bolt. This important or >> the ease-out/screw extractor will be fighting leverage. Too, it helps if >> you >> take steps to insure the bolt is loose in its threads. This can be aided >> by >> the use of a chemical such as penetrating oil or by heating or both. >> >> I hope this helps and you experience success. >> >> Craig >> >> >> *Michael Sullivan <sandwichhead@GMAIL.COM>* wrote: >> >> OK...Switched out new fuel hoses and FI seals in the engine compartment >> yesterday. All went well until reinstalling left side fuel rail. I >> over-torqued and sheared off the bolt. Went out and bought a new drill at >> Sears and a few bits and a flexible/bendable extension at Northern Tool >> and >> Harbour Freight. Can't seem to drill into the sheared bolt too well in >> order to get the Screw-out in. Will be heading to Lowes when they open >> and >> try to get a better bit. Any other suggestions? >> >> -- >> Michael in San Antonio >> 91GL AT 'Gringo' >> >> >> > > > -- > Michael in San Antonio > 91GL AT 'Gringo'


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