Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 13:45:29 -0600
Reply-To: Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Fridge again....
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BTW.. I have checked "Reefer Madness" - great article...doesn't necessarily help yet....I also checked the archives and vanagon.com...
Can't get it to light on propane...with a catch.
Symptoms...
1. Refrigerator works on AC
2. Don't know about battery/DC
3. When following the starting instructions...there is one instruction that says the amber light will blink when you turn on the gas button. Mine doesn't blink, it
comes on and stays on. BTW...it used to blink a couple of years ago. Since then I had an electrical problem and the RV place "fixed" the electric
problem...possibly causing this problem. Also, the fridge didn't work with propane before this electrical problme either.
I plan on executing the following before removing the fridge ( have already done 1 and 2, however):
1. Try wildly pumping the air supply pump at least 30 times before pressing
the button that supplies LP gas to the refrigerator. This will ensure there
is oxygen there for ignition when the refrigerator needs it. If you press the
LP gas supply button too soon the LP Gas can push away Oxygen that you need
for ignition to occur.
2. Try alternatively pushing the air supply pump/ignite plunger (far left) in
all the way over and over again as you press the gas supply button. Each time
the plunger goes all the way in you can hear a noise as it sends a spark into
the combustion chamber. Who knows, one of the sparks might light.
3. Try breathing or pushing air into the little metal drainage tube that
comes underneath the refrigerator to its front left bottom. Alternatively,
try sucking air out of this metal tube, into your mouth, and then push the
air from your mouth without inhaling any of it. (You will usually notice
smoke was in there, which was preventing ignition.) This tube is capped by a
little screw on metal plug on the end of a tiny chain, which you unscrew.
Blowing air into this little tube may disturb debris in the combustion
chamber which is impeding proper operation. It will also cause Oxygen to
enter the chamber to make combustion work better. When you're done, screw the
little cap back on this little pipe to avoid problems with water draining
onto the floor, or the flame blowing out while you drive.
I have a Bently manual which shows how to remove the fridge starting with section 76.24.
Any parts to be worried about that I need to be extra careful with?
Are there any tools I should have beyond a standard set of screwdrivers, socket wrenches, etc?
How long should it take me given that I am not very handy and I have never worked on this before?
Should I get help or can one person do it?
Obviously the blue light cannot be seen easily inside the fridge, but can I depend on the monitor light on the front panel of the cabinet (under the water
levels) to tell the true story...i.e if it's lit then the fridge is working on propane? (under the water level)
I live in the Denver area...do any of you local folks want to help with the fridge? :) I'll set up a day for the work and we can work it out together? Even if
you are a novice, I wouldn't mind...2 heads, etc.
--peace--
stu