>> * Anode/electric-based rust stopper. I forget the brand, and it seems >> like black magic to me (another round of google searching in my >> future...). But ... now that I'm listing stuff out I do remember >> re-connecting a loose cable to this device the first day I began >> diagnosing the headlight problem. I'll try to figure out how much >> current this device draws. > > Occam sez...you hooked this thing up, and a week later your battery was > drawing flies. Coincidence? Perhaps. But if you want to shave with his > blade, unhook the bloody thing and see what happens. Yeah, I definitely feel like I've been hit with the clue-stick :-) > As to the black magic bit -- active electrolytic-corrosion protection > systems work very well *on items immersed in salt water or other conducting > media.* Ships, buried pipelines and such. They impress a current of IIRC > about 100 ma / m^2 through the electrolyte into the protected surface. So > if you're planning on a submarine conversion you might look into a *real* > system of this type. But otherwise, be glad the other guy paid for the > thing and tear it down for parts, 'cause for automotive use it's pure snake > oil. Good to know, I was wondering about that. No plans for a submarine conversion (yet). Thanks! Luke |
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