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Date:         Mon, 20 Oct 2008 07:30:29 -0700
Reply-To:     Luke Bakken <luke.bakken@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Luke Bakken <luke.bakken@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: The drama continues -> Both low beams burnt out at same time?
Comments: To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <71d9cdf90810192322w30789f7fwcecc738868b6c3d3@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Jake,

Sorry about that, I should have mentioned that sort of thing. I'm just getting used to describing car issues on this list! I should be decent at it, because I write software for a living and am always telling QA to write better bug reports.

Other modifications (that I know of, all were installed by the previous owner):

* Headlight relay kit (mentioned in original email)

* Aftermarket CD stereo (Alpine, at least 5 years old I think). This stereo can be turned on if the ignition is in the off position.

* Anode/electric-based rust stopper. I forget the brand, and it seems like black magic to me (another round of google searching in my future...). But ... now that I'm listing stuff out I do remember re-connecting a loose cable to this device the first day I began diagnosing the headlight problem. I'll try to figure out how much current this device draws.

* Interior heater. This device is definitely in the off position, but I could disconnect it just to be sure.

For a new (as of two months ago) 12V battery, what sort of current draw would drain it to 8V in 7 days?

Thanks again, Luke

On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 11:22 PM, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote: > And just now you're mentioning the engine swap?! :-) > > Any other major modifications you'd like to tell us about? Aftermarket > stereo, power antenna, alarm etc..... > > On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 8:24 PM, Luke Bakken <luke.bakken@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> >> I pulled the fuses one at a time to see what circuit the problem may >> >> be on, but no luck. Being a Vanagon newbie, I'm not really familiar >> > >> > How much drain are you seeing? >> >> It's weird - if I have my multimeter set to the 10A range, it appears >> to be hovering around 100mA, but if I move the multimeter to the 500mA >> range, it's pegged. Grr - either I'm reading the tester wrong >> (entirely possible) or the tester has an issue. If I put a 12V test >> light in series between the negative cable and negative post it does >> light up, although dimly. In addition, I hear a whirring motor sound >> from up by the dash for about 2 seconds when I restore power (and I >> see the resulting current draw), but it shuts itself off. What is >> that? >> >> What amperage or multi tester do list members here recommend? >> >> From my reading online last night, the next step is to get a reliable >> mA reading and start pulling fuses and relays until the current draw >> goes down. Failing that, it appears that things like the power door >> locks, stereo, LED clock, alternate battery system (I don't have a 2nd >> battery, but it appears that in addition to the stock positive cable >> on my battery there are the two red/white wires as well) or alternator >> could be causing this ... or something else, like a barely-shorted >> wire somewhere. >> >> One other thing that I have noticed with this van is that the >> open-door chime doesn't *always* come on when the driver's side door >> is opened. And, sometimes when it is on and I hoist myself up using >> the steering wheel, it stops chiming. >> >> To make this all even more interesting, the van has the Smallcar >> Subaru conversion as well and I'm really hoping this isn't related to >> that. Good times! >> >> Thanks, >> Luke > > > > -- > Jake > 1984 Vanagon GL > 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" > Crescent Beach, BC > www.crescentbeachguitar.com > http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27 >


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