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Date:         Tue, 28 Oct 2008 16:21:59 -0700
Reply-To:     John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Goubeaux <john@UCSB.EDU>
Organization: University of California Santa Barbara
Subject:      Re: question about 4-speed shift rod front "fork"
Comments: To: Allan Streib <streib@CS.INDIANA.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <m1wsfs1i4z.fsf@cs.indiana.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Allan, Congratulations on getting it all sorted out ! I was reading your thread during the last week or so and having had to replace some of the worn parts in my linkage was curious how it would go.

I actually paid someone to replace some of the worn parts a few yrs ago and at the time they guy said there was one part that he could not get readily and the reverse lockout never seemed to work afterward, ie one does not actually have to push down to take the shifter to the lh and reverse. I have just gotten used to it but have always wondered what worn part was not replaced to allow this to still happen ? A while ago ( while doing some steering work) I had access up into the shift box area and was looking at the "sliders" on the side of the box and was wondering if I could get a better idea.

I need to have a closer look at the Bentley diagrams but wanted to ask if the nylon "finger" on the reverse lockout side could play a part in this? I guess i don't completely understand how the reverse lockout mechanism works so any chance you could shed some light on the topic?

I am gonna take a look at the pic you posted as well as this should be worth a "thousand words" as they say..

-john

Allan Streib wrote: > I installed new shift rod bushings (center, just behind the gas tank, > and rear, at the transmission) as well as a "repair kit" for the linkage > bits at the transmission end. I now effectively have all new shift > linkage and bushings from front to back, since I installed a repair kit > for the shifter itself a few months ago. The only thing I have not > replaced is the universal joint in the middle of the van. > > I tried to adjust the shifter according to the Bentley procedure. It > calls for a 23mm gap between the reverse "fork" and the reverse lockout, > which I tried but as before found it completely incorrect. I was not > be able to get into reverse with that adjustment, and had first gear > where reverse should be. > > So, I had to twist the slip joint in the center of the van. I found > that I had to have the shifter against the reverse lockout and then > twist the rear linkage counter-clockwise about one more notch. That got > me close, and then I fine-tuned by adusting the base plate on the > shifter in the cab. > > I have not yet taken it on the road, but am hopeful that I'll have a > good gearshift feel after all this work. It feels pretty good just > standing still, but the true test will be driving it. I need to button > up some electrical work on the dash (trying to replace the lamps that > illuminate the heat/vent controls) and then I'll take 'er for a spin. > > Allan > -- > 1991 Vanagon GL > > Allan Streib <streib@cs.indiana.edu> writes: > > >> Someone asked for pictures -- I did not actually take any as I went >> along, but here's a shot of the finished product. >> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/allanstreib/Shifter#5262242323547866834 >> >> Haven't actually tried it out yet -- new shift rod bushings arrived >> yesterday and I'll be installing them this afternoon. >> >> Allan >> -- >> 1991 Vanagon GL >> >> Allan Streib <streib@cs.indiana.edu> writes: >> >> >>> Something just strikes me as "wrong" that I should have to pay the >>> dealer for a new shift rod just because a little nylon piece has fallen >>> off. I mean it's basically just a piece of pipe, nothing at all to >>> "wear out" otherwise. So I decided to see if I could fabricate >>> something. >>> >>> A small plastic/poly kitchen cutting board from Wal-Mart provided the >>> source material. I measured the bare metal finger on the shift rod >>> fork, and used a jigsaw to cut a small piece out of the cutting board. >>> Then using a file and sandpaper I shaped the piece, tapering one end, >>> and also making it a little thinner since the stock cutting board was a >>> little too thick (comparing to the other side of the fork which still >>> has it's cover piece intact). Then using a dremel tool I made a hollow >>> slot (like a mortise) in the piece so it would fit over the bare metal >>> fork on the shift rod. >>> >>> I degreased the metal with brake cleaner, filled the hollow in the >>> plastic piece with JB Weld, and pressed it into place. We'll see how it >>> holds up, but I think it's worth it as an experiment. >>> >>> Allan >>> -- >>> 1991 Vanagon GL >>> >>> "Jaime Forero" <jforero@sbcglobal.net> writes: >>> >>> >>>> You should have a nylon cover on each of the 2 fingers of the fork. I >>>> bought the rod from VW about a year ago and replaced it. Grease up >>>> the contact area as well as you can. Adjust and you will be in >>>> business. >>>> Cheers >>>> Jaime >>>> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "Allan Streib" <streib@CS.INDIANA.EDU> >>>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> >>>> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 1:47 PM >>>> Subject: question about 4-speed shift rod front "fork" >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> Is there supposed to be a plastic or nylon "finger" on each side of the >>>>> fork on the front of the shift rod? Looking at the illustration in the >>>>> Bentley it seems that there is, I only have one on the 3/4 shift gate >>>>> side, not on the reverse gate side. >>>>> >>>>> If I'm missing one, are these available? Or would I be looking at >>>>> trying to fabricate something? Anyone know the dimensions? >>>>> >>>>> Allan >>>>> -- >>>>> 1991 Vanagon GL >>>>> >>> -- >>> 1991 Vanagon GL >>> >>> >> -- >> 1991 Vanagon GL >> >> > > -- > 1991 Vanagon GL >


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