Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (November 2008, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 9 Nov 2008 23:00:50 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 2.2 Rebuild Questions
Comments: To: Greg Baxter <gregbaxter@SHAW.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <49179FB1.9050706@shaw.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The green o-rings at the top of the cylinders do very little to keep the combustion gasses in and the coolant out. Most likely your have loose heads as the result of improper torque at installation, overheating, or the studs are just no longer doing their job. As the gasses keep leaking, the top of the cylinder can erode which will just make things worse. When the engine cools, instead of gasses going out, coolant will get in. Just a little bit of coolant is all that is needed to burn holes in the tops of pistons and anything that gets past the pistons will make short work of the bearings. Heated coolant and air make a great corrosive.

Except for blueprinting and balancing, stock will give the best longevity. There is little proof that coatings and magic stuff will really make the engine last longer. When the water pump belt fails or a hose blows, it doesn't matter anyway.

Avoid the temptation for a larger pump. This will only increase consumption, foul catalytic converters, and in winter, the oil pressure relief may not be able to handle the increased flow so you will get to blow oil filters and maybe even break a pump shaft. How do I know?

It is really unlikely that the crank will need machining.

Of all the engine parts, the case and the studs really cause the most grief after an overhaul. If the case is not straight, then the heads wont seal, the bearings won't line up etc.

When you open the case, look carefully at the center webs, If there is any sign of wear where the case halves meet, (the machining marks worn shiny), then the case is also worn.

As for the collector car insurance, check the policy carefully. They are usually restrictive on how the vehicle can be used. Don't rely on the agent. Read and understand the contract. Imagine finding out you have no liability after you get into an accident.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Greg Baxter Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:43 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: 2.2 Rebuild Questions

Hi Everyone!

I've been lurking here for a few months now, since purchasing my 87 Syncro Westy in August this summer. I've spent the past month doing searches and taking notes, mostly The Samba, Shoptalk and here on the list - just ask my wife how much time I've spent doing the searches...

We took him (Bastian) on a couple of road trips this summer, down the Oregon coast and through the interior of BC. On the last leg of the trips, he was pushing exhaust gases into the coolant, suggesting (at the least) that one of the green rings in the bottom of the cylinders was shot. This only happens when 'compression braking' down long grades. I can drive him on flat roads forever, though. Both heads are weeping a little bit, and he marks his territory with a silver-dollar-sized oil spot after every drive. Since being parked for a couple of weeks, the oil spot hasn't grown much, so I guess it's being splashed around while driving.

Just after purchasing the van, I did the routine tune-up items - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters, oil change, thermostat (replaced the original from '87) burped the rad. I'm about 3 years away from being able to use collector plates and saving a ton on insurance, so those are a couple of reasons that I want to stay with a stock (ish) engine.

I'm up in Canada, eh, and our dollar is on the decline against the US buck, so for me, the option of buying an engine and having it shipped up here gets difficult and expensive.

I'll get some pics up soon, but for now - here are my plans and questions. Please feel free to comment, question and respond as you like.

My goal is a reliable, slightly-more-powerful-than stock, emissions-passing engine that I won't have to worry about for the next 20 years. Fuel economy is an issue, but not my top priority. I don't mind using 90 or even 94 if the need be.

My questions are - will this combination work, and what have I forgotten. I'm trying to keep this whole endeavour under $3500 CDN - today that's +/-$2950 to those of you in Obama-land.

Here's the list:

GW 2.2l P&L Kit GW AMC heads - I want to get these ceramic coated - worthwhile? Scat 5.4 or 5.5 CrMo rods (I get that the small ends have to be machined to 22mm, will I have to machine the pistons to get the 5.5s to work?) *Are the weight savings worth the extra $100 over machining my stock rods? CB Performance 2252 Cam & Cam gear CBP Maxi I Oil pump Engine Gasket set Oil Pump cover nuts/gasket Oil Pressure Release Valve & Spring New Hyd lifters (CrMo Pushrods?) Clutch Kit - do I need to go heavy duty? Main Bearings Rod Bearings (do I need if I'm going with new rods?) Camshaft bearings (are these 'always replace'?) Blue coolant temp sensor (did the black one when I did the thermostat) Oil Pressure switches O2 sensor Fuel lines

What other machining will I need besides the crank? I like the idea of sending the crank off to Mr. Stamkos, but in the interests of my budget, can my local machine shop do the work?

A little background about myself - I've been into watercooled VWs since I bought my first Mk2 Jetta in 94. Since then, I've gone through an 82 Scirocco that I swapped a later engine into, and did a bunch of bolt-ons to. My current car is a 90 Corrado (digi 1) that's turbocharged. My mechanic did the wrenching on that project. Because of the Corrado, I have a decent, basic understanding of Digifant, although I understand that there are some differences between the Corrado & the Vanagon - namely the knock sensor, and the availability of aftermarket tuning options. I work at a greenhouse/nursery during my days (sorry, folks, only legal plants grown there! Laughing ) and there's not much going on there this time of year. My time evaporates quickly in February until June, so I need to have the project finished by, let's say, Valentines Day.

What sort of special tools am I looking at? I've got the basics, a floor jack, a clean, well-lit 2-car garage, (2/3 taken up by the Westy) but no engine hoist, stand or workbench. I'll be able to work on it weekends and evenings. I'll start the teardown next weekend but I'm waiting on December 1 to order the GW parts in the hopes of a Christmas special.

How am I doing so far, gang?

Many thanks in advance!

Greg '87 Syncro Westy 'Bastian'


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.