Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 08:38:36 -0800
Reply-To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.2 Rebuild Questions
In-Reply-To: <491857A6.7050002@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
*"30 mins of your time to see what kind of shape they are in. Or you can
just
factor getting rebuilt Air Flow Meter, Idle switch, Temp sensors (which
I see that on your list already), oxygen sensor, and idle control unit.
Have your injectors cleaned and flow tested. I also have rebuilt ECUs
for $250 if you want to go the full monty."*
More reasons that make an engine swap the way to go, whether Zetec or
Subaru. Modern ECU, injectors, coils, wires , 10 to 1 compression that
works on regular, 4 valves per cilinder, steel fuel lines, no rubber water
gaskets are all compelling reasons to change.
On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 7:47 AM, Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@comcast.net> wrote:
> I would say your number one way to save money on this project is to buy
> your parts from me (www.vanagain.com) instead of GW. We offer the same
> parts at quite a bit less money. They don't have any magical fairy dust
> to sprinkle on these parts that makes them any better than the exact
> same things that we sell for sometimes as much as 50% less. I have
> rebuilt these engines myself over the years so I have a list of all of
> the parts that I replace that I can share with you and give you an
> estimate before you buy anything.
>
> As far as going with juiced up parts is concerned there is always a plus
> and a minus side to everything. Going with larger than stock Pistons
> and cylinders usually also goes along with upping the compression to 10
> to 1. This will require you to run premium fuel all the time or risk
> detonation or preignition (either will kill a new engine very quickly).
> Just understand that before you dive in and ask yourself if it is worth
> it to you to pay an extra 20 to 30 cents a gallon over the long run.
>
> As Jim stated many folks just plop a rebuilt engine in their van and
> expect this to make all of the electronics and fuel injection components
> also brand new. They get upset when the new engine doesn't run properly
> or doesn't get good fuel mileage even though these problems are probably
> due to a bad fuel injection component. You can test your wiring harness
> and components with a Bentley manual and a multimeter and about 30 mins
> of your time to see what kind of shape they are in. Or you can just
> factor getting rebuilt Air Flow Meter, Idle switch, Temp sensors (which
> I see that on your list already), oxygen sensor, and idle control unit.
> Have your injectors cleaned and flow tested. I also have rebuilt ECUs
> for $250 if you want to go the full monty.
>
> I hope this helps you and let me know if I can help your further.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
>
>
>
> Greg Baxter wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone!
>>
>> I've been lurking here for a few months now, since purchasing my 87
>> Syncro Westy in August this summer. I've spent the past month doing
>> searches and taking notes, mostly The Samba, Shoptalk and here on the
>> list - just ask my wife how much time I've spent doing the searches...
>>
>> We took him (Bastian) on a couple of road trips this summer, down the
>> Oregon coast and through the interior of BC. On the last leg of the
>> trips, he was pushing exhaust gases into the coolant, suggesting (at the
>> least) that one of the green rings in the bottom of the cylinders was
>> shot. This only happens when 'compression braking' down long grades. I
>> can drive him on flat roads forever, though. Both heads are weeping a
>> little bit, and he marks his territory with a silver-dollar-sized oil
>> spot after every drive. Since being parked for a couple of weeks, the
>> oil spot hasn't grown much, so I guess it's being splashed around while
>> driving.
>>
>> Just after purchasing the van, I did the routine tune-up items - cap,
>> rotor, wires, plugs, filters, oil change, thermostat (replaced the
>> original from '87) burped the rad. I'm about 3 years away from being
>> able to use collector plates and saving a ton on insurance, so those are
>> a couple of reasons that I want to stay with a stock (ish) engine.
>>
>> I'm up in Canada, eh, and our dollar is on the decline against the US
>> buck, so for me, the option of buying an engine and having it shipped up
>> here gets difficult and expensive.
>>
>> I'll get some pics up soon, but for now - here are my plans and
>> questions. Please feel free to comment, question and respond as you like.
>>
>> My goal is a reliable, slightly-more-powerful-than stock,
>> emissions-passing engine that I won't have to worry about for the next
>> 20 years. Fuel economy is an issue, but not my top priority. I don't
>> mind using 90 or even 94 if the need be.
>>
>> My questions are - will this combination work, and what have I
>> forgotten. I'm trying to keep this whole endeavour under $3500 CDN -
>> today that's +/-$2950 to those of you in Obama-land.
>>
>> Here's the list:
>>
>> GW 2.2l P&L Kit
>> GW AMC heads - I want to get these ceramic coated - worthwhile?
>> Scat 5.4 or 5.5 CrMo rods (I get that the small ends have to be
>> machined to 22mm, will I have to machine the pistons to get the 5.5s to
>> work?) *Are the weight savings worth the extra $100 over machining my
>> stock rods?
>> CB Performance 2252 Cam & Cam gear
>> CBP Maxi I Oil pump
>> Engine Gasket set
>> Oil Pump cover nuts/gasket
>> Oil Pressure Release Valve & Spring
>> New Hyd lifters
>> (CrMo Pushrods?)
>> Clutch Kit - do I need to go heavy duty?
>> Main Bearings
>> Rod Bearings (do I need if I'm going with new rods?)
>> Camshaft bearings (are these 'always replace'?)
>> Blue coolant temp sensor (did the black one when I did the
>> thermostat)
>> Oil Pressure switches
>> O2 sensor
>> Fuel lines
>>
>> What other machining will I need besides the crank? I like the idea of
>> sending the crank off to Mr. Stamkos, but in the interests of my budget,
>> can my local machine shop do the work?
>>
>> A little background about myself - I've been into watercooled VWs since
>> I bought my first Mk2 Jetta in 94. Since then, I've gone through an 82
>> Scirocco that I swapped a later engine into, and did a bunch of bolt-ons
>> to. My current car is a 90 Corrado (digi 1) that's turbocharged. My
>> mechanic did the wrenching on that project. Because of the Corrado, I
>> have a decent, basic understanding of Digifant, although I understand
>> that there are some differences between the Corrado & the Vanagon -
>> namely the knock sensor, and the availability of aftermarket tuning
>> options. I work at a greenhouse/nursery during my days (sorry, folks,
>> only legal plants grown there! Laughing ) and there's not much going on
>> there this time of year. My time evaporates quickly in February until
>> June, so I need to have the project finished by, let's say, Valentines
>> Day.
>>
>> What sort of special tools am I looking at? I've got the basics, a floor
>> jack, a clean, well-lit 2-car garage, (2/3 taken up by the Westy) but no
>> engine hoist, stand or workbench. I'll be able to work on it weekends
>> and evenings. I'll start the teardown next weekend but I'm waiting on
>> December 1 to order the GW parts in the hopes of a Christmas special.
>>
>> How am I doing so far, gang?
>>
>> Many thanks in advance!
>>
>>
>> Greg
>> '87 Syncro Westy 'Bastian'
>>
>>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
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