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Date:         Mon, 10 Nov 2008 12:48:38 -0700
Reply-To:     Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: fridge....saga continues
Comments: To: Doug Alcock <doug.alcock@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <1ed6d210811100808s7ef346fbq870852a65a313535@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks... I can't bench test it until I figure out what connectors i can use...nobody can tell me what I need to get.

--Original Message Text--- From: Doug Alcock Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 11:08:48 -0500

Bench test it --- see Frank Condelli's fridge page --- http://frankcondelli.com/fridge.htm you can hook up your BBQ tank and get it running on your bench before you re-install :-) --- you must be a very patient person -- I hate pulling an reinstalling the fridge.

Cheers, Doug

On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 9:19 AM, Stu Schwartz <sschwartz999i@comcast.net> wrote: Well, I've read most of the articles on the fridge...and I now consider myself somewhat of an expert (not really) in removing and reinstalling the fridge, having done it about 3 times in one day.... btw...this is a '91 fridge with electronic spark.

Anyway I've replaced the thermocouple and electronic starter, cleaned the firebox (which was very clean btw). I am getting air to the firebox as well. Anything special about the thermocouple? There are no kinks in it and the connections appear tight.

It works on DC and AC.

I now have spark, as indicated by the flashing amber light and clicking noise. However, it just won't light. But it just won't ignite. I occasionally get a small "poof" which sounds like it is getting a puff of propane. Then the sparker stops sparking (and the amber light goes out) Also, if i turn the thermostat knob past the min and/or the propane knob down and or up it will sometimes turn the sparker off. If I turn it again the sparker will go back on. I fear I am not getting propane to the firebox. Anyone have any ideas?

Is there a way to bypass the safety valve to test the fridge? Does anyone have any extra fridge parts/pipes like the safety valve? This is a part that Go Westy and other companies cannot order. I would need to find a friendly RV/Dometic dealer to order it.

Also, has anyone ever reconfigured the propane connections to accept quick release flexible hosing like you find on grills?. I might be interested in connecting a small propane cannister for testing the fridge outside the van as reconnecting the fridge to test is somewhat of a pita.

This list has been extremely helpful in the past and I'm hoping for more luck.

--peace-- stu

-- http://www.dougalcock.com


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