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Date:         Sat, 8 Nov 2008 18:45:41 -0800
Reply-To:     Vanagon DougF <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Vanagon DougF <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject:      Re: Semi- Vanagon topic:  Getting hands clean after you've gotten
              them greasy
Comments: To: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I have been working around cars and solvents now for over 40 years. Back in the 70s at the first automotive VW repair shop I worked in we had several solvent tanks for degreasing air cooled vw engine parts, including a large tank of carb cleaner. That tank stunk up our whole shop and parts department that I am wondering how I am still above ground. I remember taking engine cases out with bare hands. Same with the solvent tanks and parts washers.

For several years now I have switched to using the nitril gloves as a barrier between the grease on car parts and ME!

You can purchase a 100 pack of the nitril gloves at Harbor Freight for $7.99 thats about 8 cents a pair. They do tear easily but I too recycle the ones that can still blow up with out a air leak. I used to get moisture build up but the corn starch baby powder works well if that is a problem.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37052 I too have used the barrier cream and they are better than nothing, and the fast orange with pumice will cut up your hands if you are washing several times a day.

A very good mechanic friend of mine just told me about a new brand of glove he uses that is thicker and holds up better than the harbor freight glove, he now uses them.

Microflex diamond

http://www.labsafety.com/store/Safety_Supplies/Gloves/Disposable_Latex_Glove s/41890/?CID=8PG620TNMICROFLEXPROD121945&s_kwcid=microflex%20gloves|21870347 66

> 1. Blue Nitrile Exam Gloves. I'm not allergic to latex or vinyl, > but those gloves don't hold up even as well as the Nitrile. Yes, I > use them for CV Joint repacking and a couple of other really nasty > jobs, but for everyday mechanical repairs, they don't hold up and > repeated use gets expensive. I know some auto stores sell Heavy Duty > ones, but still after 30 minutes or so, your hands get really clammy > and wet and that makes putting on the next pair difficult. I DO use > these gloves extensively when working with Epoxy and other nasty > resins though and they do fine for that, but that work doesn't > require all the abrasion of the auto work.. > > 2. Kerrodex barrier cream- Your spozed to rub this stuff into your > fingernails and exposed skin before you begin and after the mech > work, rinse with water and all of the dirt goes bye bye. Spozed to > work for fiberglass resins too and it doesn't It smells like soap in > a tube and hasn't performed anywhere near the way I'd like it to, > especially for the cost of it. > > 3. Fast Orange/Go-Jo/Pumice cleaners/Lava/ you name it- EVENTUALLY, > they get the stuff off, but the dirtier you get, the time to clean up > gets exponentially longer and once you rinse with water, the > effectiveness of the repeated applications diminishes a great > deal. EEven the "natural" versions of this stuff dry out the skin badly. > > TIA > > DM&FS


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