Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Fri, 21 Nov 2008 20:09:44 -0600
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Newbie '86 Vanagon owner here
Comments: To: Mark A Kippert <vanagon@KIPPERT.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <5827837F-CB2F-4C02-A7AE-4DFB5D055770@kippert.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Mark,

Here is more.

Since this is a vehicle new to you, it wouldn't hurt to take some other steps.

Vanagons have the "clattering lifter syndrome". A lifter will just suddenly go flat for no good reason. Well, actually there is a good reason, but the solution that seems to work best is to switch to a synthetic oil - and to me it seems Mobil One works best on my van - and to install a Mann or Mahle oil filter. The latter appears to hold the oil in the oil galleries better after the engine is shut down. But even then, eventually, the oil will leak from the galleries, allowing the pressure in the lifters to drop and the oil will seep out and the lifter will rattle until it gets pumped back up after startup.

_Oil Change _- I switched to Mobil one 15W50 Synthetic a long time ago. _Oil Filter_ - the Vanagons seem to do a bit better on a Mann or Mahle filter. _Brakes _- Drain and flush the system through each brake fluid drain point (each wheel) and install new DOT 4 brake fluid. You will be amazed at the water and trash you will get if you catch the flush in a bottle. _Clutch Slave Cylinder:_ When the van is up for brake work, inspect the clutch slave cylinder on the let side of the tranny for leaks. Be sure the boot on th cylinder is in good shape. _Manual Tranny_ - First remove the fill plug - in other words be sure youcan get it out - then drain the tranny and refill with Redline MT 90. Your tranny will shift easier and run smoother with this tranny oil. Change your tranny fluid every two years. (per Daryl at AA Transaxle our list tranny specialist) _CV Bearings_ - if you don't know the history of the servicing on these - pull them, clean , grease with the correct grease, and re-install with new boots. Might not be a bad idea to install new 12 point bolts. _Shifter Mechanism_ - as mentioned in other posts - lube the shifter system from front to back. Be sure all the little rubber boots on this system are all intact. Sand it the works wears them out fast. _Rear Heater_ - feel under the heater to see if you have a wet spot. The Summer/Winter control leaks sometimes and needs to have the seal replaced. _Battery:_ Open up the battery box under the passenger seat and be sure there is no corrosion in there. If there is you want to clean all that out, then paint any bare metal with POR14 and then paint the thing with a bitumin base paint to prevent further corrosion. Be sure any vent openings in the bottom of the box are clear so fumes can escape. Given that it is winter, clean your terminals posts and your cable connectors to the posts, right down to bright clean metal. That way the battery will charge up good, and you will have the least resistance to cold starts. _Front end:_ Get the van up on a rack somewhere, and have your upper and lower ball joints checked. It's just good preventive maintenance to inspect those periodically. _ Idle Stabilizer System:_ This system controls idle speeds under certain conditions where engine stalling would be undesirable at best. It is comprised of the following elements - 1) Idle Stabilizer Valve - tubular device on top of the engine, with wires out one end., and 2) an Idle Stablilizer Control box located in front of the right hand tail light. The box plugs into a socket just forward of the light. and 3) ECU - an electronic box located under the left side of the rear seat, and 4) Power Steering Pressure Switch on the power steering pump, and 5) the Oxygen Sensor - commonly called the O2 sensor. All these components working together keep the engine running as sufficient rpm as to provide enough HP to the other systems to keep the engine from stalling out under load. _Air Conditioner_ - When engine rpm drops below 1500 rpm with the AC turned on, the the Idle Stabilizer System will boost the engine RPM back up to keep the engine running, otherwise the engine would stall. The AC systems takes about 5 HP to run

_Power Steering:_ With the engine warm, turn the steering wheel stop to stop. The Idle Stabilizer system should kick the RPM up so the engine doesn't stall under the load of the power steering pump. If the engine stalls, you have an Idle Stabilizer system problem.The pressure switch on the pump feeds a signal to the ECU that results in an RPM increase.

_Cold Start: _ On a cold start, with a properly tuned engine, the Idle Stabilizer keeps the engine running right at 1200 rpm until the thermostat opens and the TEMP II sensor signals the ECU to tell the Idles Stabilizer System to Idle down.

_O2 Sensor:_ This little jewel signals the the ECU and the ECU uses that signal to adjust the mixture on the engine. YOU CAN RUN THE ENGINE with the O2 Sensor disconnected. I emphasize this because in my experience, rough running problems can ensue while on the road, and sometimes simply disconnecting the thing solves the problem until you can get home and do some serious trouble shooting.. It is just a good thing to remember.

_OIL FILLER CAP:_ Putting oil in the engine is often a frustrating thing with these bans, becasue of the low angle of the filler neck. But don't be like the frustrated lady who told the garage attendant she could not find the oil filler point, and she absolutely didn't know what to do with the 710 device mounted on the engine. Drop the oil hatch down, remove the 710 cap, then reach inside the black tube and with thumb and forefinger clamped together, pull the oil filler neck extension out far enough to ease filling with oil. Fill with oil to 1/2 way between the upper and lower mark, wipe up when done. Push the extension back down the hole, and re-install the 710 cap. Check your coolant level. Close the hatch. Yo are good to go.

_Spark Plugs_: Should you decide to change them, on the right side of the engine, it is easier if you remove the air filter housing, and the sheet metal shield down under, before you attempt to change that forward right-hand plug. it's a PITA to get at other wise.

_Engine Timing:_ For ease of doing this, it wouldn't hurt to put just a touch of white epoxy paint in the timing notches on the big pully. Sure helps to see them when timing with a strobe.

This has all been a bit wordy, and I hope I got it all correct. I will surely be corrected if I didn't, but at least you will be aware.

Good luck with your new chariot, Hope you get a lot of miles with minimum maintenance headaches. I have sure enjoyed my GL's over the years.

Regards,

John Rodgers 88 GL Driver

Mark A Kippert wrote: > Greetings list members! > > I've been lurking for a short while and have just recently purchased a > very nice 1986 Vanagon GL. At 52 years old I've been a VW fan for many > years. I had a Bettle in my teens and later had a nice '73 bay window > which was totaled about 25 years ago. I've wanted another VW van ever > since. While it's in very nice condition I'll be posting questions > about a few minor issues that I've noted and see what kind of > improvements I can make in the future. > > I was lucky enough to purchase it from a 73 year old Dutch gentleman > who was a VW mechanic many years past. For the last 35 years he's > owned a little foreign auto repair shop/dealership specializing in > european cars, especially early VWs. He's now semi-retired and even > though the place is a bit run down, he seems to still enjoy working on > the few cars that roll in, at his own pace of course. > > He'd owned the van since 2000 and put about 10k miles on it. The > odometer shows 215k miles but it looks good and runs strong. He > doesn't know (or remember) the history of the engine so I don't know > if it's been rebuilt. It starts right up, even with the 20 something > degree temps were having here in Indy. The tranny is a 4spd and shifts > through all the gears but it is a bit stiff (I'm guessing due to > limited of use). I've missed a shift once or twice because I didn't > get a gear fully engaged. In the time he owned it he has only replaced > the exhaust and water pump. The tires have plenty of tread but they > have cracking in the side-walls so I'm planning to replace those soon. > > I could go on but I thought I would just introduce myself for now and > say hello to the list. I have posted a page with plenty of pictures if > anyone would like to take a peek at the van. Let me know if my $1900 > was well spent. > > Pics: <http://www.kippert.com/vanagon/> > > -Mark > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > + To unsubscribe from the Vanagon List send an e-mail to > + listserv@gerry.vanagon.com with SIGNOFF VANAGON > + in the body of the message. > ------------------------------------------------------------ > >

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