Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:01:51 -0800
Reply-To: M'obeechi <obeechi@RUNBOX.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: M'obeechi <obeechi@RUNBOX.COM>
Subject: Voltage Drop, 4 feet extra, 4 gauge wire
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-15"
I have batteries under the rear seat. These are bigger than the batteries that were under the front seats. Since I have a Carat, the area under the rear seat really isn't ideal. It's too easy to create a circuit with a wrench with the positive of a battery and the metal of the seat frame. Removing and reinstalling batteries is also awkward, as you have to tip the battery as you do so, and be extra careful not to touch the positive terminals to the metal of the seat frame. You can wrap the terminals with electric tape, but we all know that's not always going to happen, right?
So, now I'm thinking I'd rather have three group 31 batteries, the Platinum from Sears (which are better rated and have a better warranty than the best Optimas, i.e. their the 31's, Yellow Commercial, and Blue Marine D31M). These Sears batteries could be placed immediately behind the front seats, where formerly there were Carat midseats (the black connecting part can be removed, and the holes and screws re-used for ground connections). Two batteries could be wired in parallel, and the third could serve as a starting / engine battery. All three could placed in a box that is basically a mid-bench seat, inside this bench seat, in an isolated chamber, on ground level, could be inverters, (more aft than the batteries) with the recommended 3 inches of clearance on all sides, save the belly. Vent holes for the battery chamber could be drilled on both sides (not the middle, because of the gas tank...), and fuse boxes can be placed on either end, screwed into the front seats metal base (at the rear) - just lower the exterior vapor tanks when drilling the holes.
Right now, the batteries I currently use under the rear seat, are wired with 4 gauge wire. I seem to remember the stock wire being even thicker, was it 2 gauge? In any event, the new location for the batteries will need another four feet of wire for the starting battery. Since this is DC, is that going to make a terrible difference? Will I need to use heavier gauge wire? I suppose I could wire in two 4 gauge wires between the engine and the starting battery.
It does seem that the engine has run better with the bigger batteries and shorter wire length.
My new wire path is going to be from the engine, through the holes meant for the rear heater (long since removed) and then wrapped alongside the driver side at the floor in the mid area - I can cut the cork carpet under-padding alongside the driver side wall to allow for the wire to have a defined and hidden path in the mid area, and that would help the wire to stay in place (I'm talking the back to front direction, in the mid area).
At least I wouldn't have to worry about one side of the van being heavier (i.e. the driver or passenger side). These batteries are 75 lbs each, so that's 225lbs, and assuming the hatch area might be loaded up with luggage, and passengers, there would still be some weight distributed hopefully even enough...
With those two monster batteries wired in parallel and acting as house batteries, that should give me plenty of surge reserve.
BTW, the column between the front door and the sliding door, is an excellent corridor for routing a solar panel's wires from the roof - a lot easier than the route above the sliding door, which is far too complex, and with the batteries in this new location, the solar panel wires don't have to be as long (the rear space is for ladders or cargo boxes, which is why I need to use the front for the solar panel).
------------------------------------------------------------
+ To unsubscribe from the Vanagon List send an e-mail to
+ listserv@gerry.vanagon.com with SIGNOFF VANAGON
+ in the body of the message.
------------------------------------------------------------
| 
