Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 13:08:47 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Shade tree wiring of a cold start valve on a 2.1?
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
I personally would have manual control only........
a push button on the dash,
that gets power only with igntion on.
you 'could' get power for the valve in the back, and put the push button on
the ground side of the circuit.....
but that is distinctly backwards to me, and I'd have swtiching in the
positive side of the circuit.
I'm sure a 25 amp fuse is plenty. Or start with a 16.
I would get the power from the fuse box area in the dash.
it's not hard to route wires from dash to engine compartment if you follow
what the factory did.
you remove the instrument cluster, and sometimes the left head light......
you can see the factory wire bundle goes through the 'front wall' behind the
left head light, and down alongside the radiator....
then you just keep following the main bundles.
tricky part is going over the gas tank............I use a long piece of
welding rod with my wire taped to it............
and pull it past the tank that way..........
or here's slick one.......
assuming you are going to be doing various mods and upgrades over
time..........and may want other wires going front to rear ........
you get .pax.............pax tubing from the hardware store........10 feet,
about half inch inside diamter........
very smooth too. You route that above the fuel tank........
and in the future ............you just push or pull wires through there.
In aircraft, and sometimes in cars, but especially in aircraft..........they
are always putting in extra wires for future upgrades and mods. It's the
norm to do it that way.
but I like full manual control.
the manual control glow plug circuit I ues for diesel vanagons is like
that...........hold the button down, count to 10 say ( for gas, perhaps 5 )
...
and crank 'er over.
I would remove the air plem box, and braze a fitting or boss into the air
plenum............just like it is on an air-cooled vanagon .......
and have the fuse up front, absolutely. .
you want the whole 'hot wire' fused from the power source.
Some people don't realize that if you run a wire from a power source 15 feet
to a fuse......
it's unprotected that whole 15 feet..........like if it shorts to ground.
I have a whole 85 parts van that had a total interior fire, for that very
reason................. about a high amp sterro booster under the back
seat........
there were tangled and looped hot wires under the rug............upstream of
any fuse........
Guy didn't hae a fire extinguisher. When he realized there was a
fire.........
He pulled over and got out. Blew out all but one vent window, that fire.
You could see the column of black smoke from across town too.
And he didn't have a way to get the battery disconnected quickly either.
but .........momentary contact push button on the dash.....nice place right
above the light switch for it...........
fuse it in front, follow factory wiring bundle forward, down and back.....
complete the circuit by a ground on the engine .
I think I even have been saving a cold start valve somewhere just for doing
this someday.
Never had too of course, with a properly working Digijet or Digifant system
in a vanagon.
have fun, and do solid work. Beats me how people can just 'droop' wires
willy nilly all over the place. You can make it factory need if you want to.
scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Max Wellhouse" <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 9:44 AM
Subject: Shade tree wiring of a cold start valve on a 2.1?
> Friends: I have installed a cold start valve circa 2.0 aircooled
> Vanagon motor(new one bought on ebay cheap) but never wired it in on
> my 90 GL 2.1 L motor. It seems to be the simple solution to
> getting the Vanagon to start below 10 degreees F now, since playing
> with the aftermarket Haltech ECU cold prime map is going to be a
> guessing game at best.
>
> Got the idea from a Rabbit owner either on this list or Samba. I
> guess I could've wired in the thermo time switch(also from ebay) and
> let the switch decide when to squirt or not to squirt, but the Rabbit
> guy got tired of replacing TTS's and simply wired his CSV to a
> momentary on switch on his dash so he controlled when the cold start
> valve kicked in. He sad it's worked like a champ.
>
> I guess I could wire the TTS up and avoid having to run a wire from
> the engine up to the dash(a bigger job than the Rabbit owner had),
> but I don't see a suitable place to screw it into in the engine. I
> guess I could ground it to the motor somehow and let it read ambient
> temp, or maybe stick it in the air cleaner somehow. The simpler
> route might be to do the temporary on switch on the dash and run a
> ground wire the length of the van and have the circuit completed by
> the temporary on switch by having the other terminal from the switch
> go to ground up front somewhere. Then tap +12V off an "ignition on"
> source perhaps by running a wire from the CSV to the black side of
> the coil. .Bentley shows CSV testing by jumping to the coil, so I'm
> assuming that the CSV gets 12V, and not some lesser voltage. Would
> need to fuse that run, but not sure how big a fuse to stick in the
> line.. I have a factory connector like the fuel injector connectors
> that fits right over the CSV I'm not crazy about sticking a fuse back
> in the engine compartment, but do have 2 extra terminals for fuses on
> the ECU's fuse block that should be protected from most of the
> elements. Wouldn't use this set up in the summer, just November through
> March.
>
> To summarize,
>
> 1. TTS or temporary on switch; which is better?
> 2. If I wire it to the coil for power, how big or little of a fuse do I
> need?
> 3. Are the wires to the CSV dedicated positive and negative or does
> it matter which goes where?
>
>
> thanks for any help you can come up with.
>
> DM&FS
| 
