Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:37:06 -0500
Reply-To: emaglott@BUNCOMBE.MAIN.NC.US
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Edward Maglott <emaglott@BUNCOMBE.MAIN.NC.US>
Subject: Re: Shade tree wiring of a cold start valve on a 2.1?
In-Reply-To: <20090105174424.F1E7D7F4044@pop6.cfu.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
My recollection of the Cold Start injector on the CIS and CIS-E cars that
I had was that it only fired while the starter was cranking. I played
with it as a fuel enrichment device and it pumps in a lot of fuel. I did
that by jumpering it to 12V. Is that what you are talking about? The
"5th injector?" The TTS and the control pressure regulator are blurring
together in my head right now. I think the TTS is just an on off switch
that told the 5th injector to fire or not during cranking.
Edward
> Friends: I have installed a cold start valve circa 2.0 aircooled
> Vanagon motor(new one bought on ebay cheap) but never wired it in on
> my 90 GL 2.1 L motor. It seems to be the simple solution to
> getting the Vanagon to start below 10 degreees F now, since playing
> with the aftermarket Haltech ECU cold prime map is going to be a
> guessing game at best.
>
> Got the idea from a Rabbit owner either on this list or Samba. I
> guess I could've wired in the thermo time switch(also from ebay) and
> let the switch decide when to squirt or not to squirt, but the Rabbit
> guy got tired of replacing TTS's and simply wired his CSV to a
> momentary on switch on his dash so he controlled when the cold start
> valve kicked in. He sad it's worked like a champ.
>
> I guess I could wire the TTS up and avoid having to run a wire from
> the engine up to the dash(a bigger job than the Rabbit owner had),
> but I don't see a suitable place to screw it into in the engine. I
> guess I could ground it to the motor somehow and let it read ambient
> temp, or maybe stick it in the air cleaner somehow. The simpler
> route might be to do the temporary on switch on the dash and run a
> ground wire the length of the van and have the circuit completed by
> the temporary on switch by having the other terminal from the switch
> go to ground up front somewhere. Then tap +12V off an "ignition on"
> source perhaps by running a wire from the CSV to the black side of
> the coil. .Bentley shows CSV testing by jumping to the coil, so I'm
> assuming that the CSV gets 12V, and not some lesser voltage. Would
> need to fuse that run, but not sure how big a fuse to stick in the
> line.. I have a factory connector like the fuel injector connectors
> that fits right over the CSV I'm not crazy about sticking a fuse back
> in the engine compartment, but do have 2 extra terminals for fuses on
> the ECU's fuse block that should be protected from most of the
> elements. Wouldn't use this set up in the summer, just November through
> March.
>
> To summarize,
>
> 1. TTS or temporary on switch; which is better?
> 2. If I wire it to the coil for power, how big or little of a fuse do I
> need?
> 3. Are the wires to the CSV dedicated positive and negative or does
> it matter which goes where?
>
>
> thanks for any help you can come up with.
>
> DM&FS
>
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