Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 02:59:14 -0600
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Subject: Re: Shade tree wiring of a cold start valve on a 2.1?
In-Reply-To: <62925.152.31.229.140.1231285026.squirrel@buncombe.main.nc. us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Thanks to all that have chimed in on this project, both privately and
to the list itself. Master Haynes seemed to make the most sense(what
else is new?) by advising to wire the TTS and CSV just as the Bentley
describes on page 97.13(and 97.19 FWIW). Since the Haltech also has
an 86 terminal for the fuel pump relay, that's where I'll get the
power supply and correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that the circuit
that only has juice during starting(with regards to the fuel pump
operating)? The Bentley diagram shows no fuse in that circuit, so
I'm assuming that whatever fuse protects the fuel pump relay will
cover the CSV as well. Planning on mounting the TTS on a home made
steel bracket and bolting it to the left rear mounting hole where the
AC bracket used to be. That should ground the TTS sufficiently. If
the switch ends up failing at some point in the future, then I'll
look at doing the momentary on feature in the dash up front. Prolly
install the switch to cover the hole I drilled, if for no other
reason than at least that way the switch won't get lost in a box of
totally unrelated parts.
We will be getting several nights of sub zero temps this weekend, so
I'll have a solid testing ground to see if the efforts pay
off. According to the Bus Depot parts list, that cold start valve
was used on a ton of different VW's and FWIW, some guy in KC on ebay
is trying to sell a used CSV from an air cooled Vanagon with a
starting bid of $75 and a BIN of $200!! I paid $30 for my new one on
ebay and the seller was glad to get the money. It will be a great
felling to know I can once again park the Vanagon outside all 12
months of the year
As always, thanks
DM&FS
At 05:37 PM 1/6/2009, emaglott@buncombe.main.nc.us wrote:
>My recollection of the Cold Start injector on the CIS and CIS-E cars that
>I had was that it only fired while the starter was cranking. I played
>with it as a fuel enrichment device and it pumps in a lot of fuel. I did
>that by jumpering it to 12V. Is that what you are talking about? The
>"5th injector?" The TTS and the control pressure regulator are blurring
>together in my head right now. I think the TTS is just an on off switch
>that told the 5th injector to fire or not during cranking.
>
>Edward
>
> > Friends: I have installed a cold start valve circa 2.0 aircooled
> > Vanagon motor(new one bought on ebay cheap) but never wired it in on
> > my 90 GL 2.1 L motor. It seems to be the simple solution to
> > getting the Vanagon to start below 10 degreees F now, since playing
> > with the aftermarket Haltech ECU cold prime map is going to be a
> > guessing game at best.
> >
> > Got the idea from a Rabbit owner either on this list or Samba. I
> > guess I could've wired in the thermo time switch(also from ebay) and
> > let the switch decide when to squirt or not to squirt, but the Rabbit
> > guy got tired of replacing TTS's and simply wired his CSV to a
> > momentary on switch on his dash so he controlled when the cold start
> > valve kicked in. He sad it's worked like a champ.
> >
> > I guess I could wire the TTS up and avoid having to run a wire from
> > the engine up to the dash(a bigger job than the Rabbit owner had),
> > but I don't see a suitable place to screw it into in the engine. I
> > guess I could ground it to the motor somehow and let it read ambient
> > temp, or maybe stick it in the air cleaner somehow. The simpler
> > route might be to do the temporary on switch on the dash and run a
> > ground wire the length of the van and have the circuit completed by
> > the temporary on switch by having the other terminal from the switch
> > go to ground up front somewhere. Then tap +12V off an "ignition on"
> > source perhaps by running a wire from the CSV to the black side of
> > the coil. .Bentley shows CSV testing by jumping to the coil, so I'm
> > assuming that the CSV gets 12V, and not some lesser voltage. Would
> > need to fuse that run, but not sure how big a fuse to stick in the
> > line.. I have a factory connector like the fuel injector connectors
> > that fits right over the CSV I'm not crazy about sticking a fuse back
> > in the engine compartment, but do have 2 extra terminals for fuses on
> > the ECU's fuse block that should be protected from most of the
> > elements. Wouldn't use this set up in the summer, just November through
> > March.
> >
> > To summarize,
> >
> > 1. TTS or temporary on switch; which is better?
> > 2. If I wire it to the coil for power, how big or little of a fuse do I
> > need?
> > 3. Are the wires to the CSV dedicated positive and negative or does
> > it matter which goes where?
> >
> >
> > thanks for any help you can come up with.
> >
> > DM&FS
> >
| 
