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Date:         Tue, 10 Mar 2009 07:59:19 -0700
Reply-To:     dylan friedman <insyncro@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         dylan friedman <insyncro@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Manual trans replacement
Comments: To: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Mark, I had a feeling it was not a rust thing. Good and bad to hear the same. Never used prying, just pulling. I just cut them off and press out the remaining shaft and replace with a new one. Once I have stainless hardware on the slave cylinder, I can remove and replace the unit easily. dylan ________________________________ From: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 10:49:42 AM Subject: Re: Manual trans replacement I live where vehicles don't rust. The notion of that lever easily popping off is foreign to me too. I'm sure some do but seldom the ones I need to remove. I have used prybars/hammers, pullers after welding on tabs, propane torches, sawsalls, etc. Mark Ken Wilford wrote: > I agree with Dylan, that shaft coming off here in the rust belt is very > iffy.  I have had ones not want to come off with pullers, etc and I had > to cut the shaft off of get it off then put a whole new actuator shaft > in (remove transmission).  The end of the shaft is super soft and so if > the arm doesn't come off easily any thing you do to it will mushroom it > and then the arm will never come off without more radical surgery.  I > wish you could just pull the clip and slide this thing off by hand. > Maybe out west where things aren't as rusty this is an option but not > where I'm at.  It is easier to undo the engine carrier and drop that > down an inch or two to get some room. > > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com > > > dylan friedman wrote: >> The big if is IF you can remove the clutch lever from the shaft. >> I am 50 50 on removing that part. >> >> dylan >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Sam Walters <syncrosam@GMAIL.COM> >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:27:13 AM >> Subject: Re: Manual trans replacement >> >> From:  "Tim King" <tking_ms@h...> >> Date:  Mon Oct 1, 2001  2:57 am >> Subject:  Re: [Syncro] Time to change out the slave >> cylinder...(another removal tip) >> >> ADVERTISEMENT >> Hey Folks, I've got a slave tip that will save you some time on this. >> Brent, sorry I didn't see this earlier, but just got back into the >> country. (Three weeks in France. Boy French vehicles have come a long >> way. We had a diesel Renault Laguna that was frankly sweet. Only saw >> about five vanagons the whole time, but many many other delivery-style >> vans.) Anyway, I digress... >> >> I got a tip from Daryl at AA transaxle that makes removing the slave >> on a syncro a snap. Basically, you just remove the slave bracket from >> the tranny by removing ONE snap ring then the clutch lever. >> >> 1. Move slave shaft/boot off clutch lever ball. If your slave is >> totally shot, you can usually just push the slave cylinder shaft/boot >> off the ball on the clutch lever. If it's a good slave (say you are >> just R and Ring the tranny), you may need to open the bleeder to make >> it easy to remove. Just lever it free, then let it hang free. >> >> 2. Wiggle the clutch lever off the shaft. If it's been there for a >> while, you may need some liquid wrench or something, but it should >> come off by hand. >> >> 2.5. Unbolt bracket supports and hose retainers from tranny (above CV >> shaft). >> >> 3. Pull the bracket and slave off as one unit. >> >> 4. Pull the unit down under the van (you put it on ramps, right?) and >> work on it where you have access to it from both ends and room for >> standard wrenches. You may need to remove a couple of the hose clamps >> holding the hose to your tranny to give you more slack. >> >> 5. Bolt on new unit and install in reverse. >> >> 6. Pressure bleed system and hit the road. >> >> Using this method takes about 30-40 minutes total, assuming you are >> using a pressure bleeder like Brent recommends. >> >> Note: I'm not sure if it's syncro specific -- I think it requires the >> flexible plastic fluid lines of the syncro, something my 83 vanagon >> was lacking. >> >> Have fun. This tip from trannyman extraordinaire Daryll at AA >> transaxle makes a drag of a job a LOT easier. >> >> Tim King >> Seattle, WA >> 87 Syncro Westy >> >>    ----- Original Message ----- >>    From: Brent Christensen >>    To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com >>    Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 5:31 AM >>    Subject: Re: [Syncro] Time to change out the slave cylinder... >> >>    Well, I did the nasty deed and replaced the slave cylinder >> yesterday morning.  Not all that bad, really.  Dr. Rainer's tip sheet >> (which I have left attached to this e-mail) was very helpful as a road >> map, but I would offer the following additional advice to anyone >> planning this job: >> >>    First, having a pressure bleeder made bleeding the system a >> 5-minute one person job.  If you don't have one already, run out and >> get one.  I have a unit called an "Eezi-bleed" that I bought years ago >> for an Austin Healey - about $30 and it is pressurized by a tire (I >> use a wheelbarrow tire with about 25 psi in it).  A quick search >> turned them up at http://www.aep.bigstep.com/Eezi.htm >> >>    Secondly, a 13 mm  "Crows foot" at the end of a long 3/8" >> extension worked WONDERS for removing the pesky rear bolt (the one >> towards the reat of the van).  Forget trying to do it with box >> wrenches, unless you have a "super stubby" like Snap-On makes, or you >> are willing to make your own by cutting it in half and grinding the >> stub smooth.  Another ideal tool would be a 13 mm "distributor wrench" >> but I was not able to find one, and don't even know if they are made >> in 13 mm. >> >>    Removing the Slave cylinder entirely from the topside is possible, >> and I would submit, easier.  In fact, if you are lucky, you could do >> it without ever crawling under the van at all.  The trick is to undo >> the banjo fitting at the slave cylinder, which is a bit tricky if you >> have thick fingers.  You have to force the short coolant hose back far >> enough so that you can back the bolt out from the banjo nut.  Be >> prepared, as all the fluid will then leak out from the system, which >> for me was nothing, since the slave had failed and dumped all its >> fluid already.  (Also, having a pressure bleeder, I was not worried >> about introducing air into the system). >> >>    The most difficult thing about reinstalling the new unit (which I >> did as an entire assembly - shaft, boot and cylinder) is getting the >> nuts started.  When you drop the slave in place, the rod rests against >> the clutch's throw-out arm (or whatever you want to call it).  This >> means that the unit wants to sit about 5 mm above its mating surface >> unless you apply some force, which then compresses the spring inside >> the cylinder (which is still empty of fluid).  Once the rear nut is >> started by hand (I used a 13 mm combination wrench slipped in >> underneath the bolt head to hold it in place, which is tricky) you can >> crank it down about 1/2 way by pushing the slave down against its >> mating surface and rotating the nut with your forefinger and middle >> finger. >> >>    Once the slave is secured like this, you can start the forward >> bolt from underneath (you have to do the rear bolt first, since the >> only way to put it into position from underneath is to use the hole >> that the slave cylinder fits into).  Start the nut by hand, then reach >> in with a long extension and "wobble socket" or 13mm socket on a 3/8" >> knuckle.  With a wobble socket, there is sufficient clearance - with a >> knuckle + socket it could be pretty tight.  I was able to completely >> tighten the forward bolt this way after reaching underneath and >> placing a box wrench around the head of the bolt and  resting against >> something.    A couple more turns on the rear bolt head with the >> crow's foot and the cylinder was in nice and snug. >> >>    Next comes the banjo fitting, which was surprisingly easy to get >> back on.  I pulled back the aforementioned hose and gently started the >> bolt with a couple of fingers twiddling at it until the threads >> caught, then tightened it down with a 17mm open end wrench.  Tightened >> it up and then fit a small plastic tube to the bleeder screw, running >> it down to an empty brake fluid can propped in the engine bay. >> >>    Next, I fitted the pressure bleeder, attached the wheel barrow >> tire, and then went back and opened the bleeder screw.  I stood and >> watched the bubbled dribble out of the system while I opened my first >> beer (when was the last time you did *that* while bleeding a hydraulic >> system?).  After a couple minutes and no more bubbles, I checked the >> pedal.  No pedal, so I pumped it slowly about 10 times and turned the >> bleeder on again by reapplying the air pressure from the tire.  About >> 30 seconds later another batch of bubbles came out, so I shut >> everything down, cleaned up, and tool it out for a test drive, >> everything working beautifully. >> >>    Total time for job:  About 2 hours start to finish,  not including >> setup and cleanup. >> >>    Brent Christensen >>    Santa Barbara, CA >> >> >> >> >>    > >>    > >>    >Removing the Clutch Slave Cylinder >>    >---------------------------------- >>    > >>    >1. Even though the clutch slave cylinder is held by only two >> bolts, it's >>    > a bear to remove. First thing you should do is to apply generous >>    > doses of WD40 or similar to the two bolts. And since, if mounted >>    > correctly, the bolts are sitting there with their heads down and >>    > their shafts up, the best way to apply the WD40 is from the engine >>    > compartment. And while you are there, also remove the tiny rubber >>    > cap on top of the bleeding valve of the slave cylinder before it >>    > might get lost in the process of the removal. >>    > >>    >2. The flexible hose leading to the clutch slave cylinder is >> attached to >>    > the frame of the van by two clamps. Remove both these clamps from >>    > the van. >>    > >>    >3. The front bolt holding the clutch slave cylinder is best >> removed from >>    > below the van with a 13mm socket on top of a long extension >> while at >>    > the same time holding the nut with a 13mm wrench. The shorter that >>    > wrench, the better. The real problem, however, is the rear bolt. >>    > Push up the rubber boot protecting the push rod for the clutch >> lever >>    > as much as possible. This way you are then able to access both ends >>    > of the rear bolt from the engine bay. Sneak in a 13mm wrench in >>    > order to hold the head of the rear bolt and remove the nut using >>    > another 13mm wrench. Again, the shorter this wrench the better, and >>    > a flat box wrench is probably suited best, because it will fit >> every >>    > 30 degrees. >>    > >>    >4. When the two bolts are removed dive under the van again, pull the >>    > push rod out of the rubber boot at the lower end of the slave >>    > cylinder and also gently pull the rubber boot from the slave >>    > cylinder. If necessary use a small screw driver to convince the >> boot >>    > of letting go. Finally carefully find a path between tranny, fuel >>    > tank, slave cylinder mounting bracket, half axle, coolant and >> exhaust >>    > piping, and maybe some other things to bring the slave cylinder >> down, >>    > so it will hang on its hose right below the tranny. >>    > >>    >5. In order to minimize the loss of brake fluid you should now >> remove as >>    > much brake fluid from the reservoir in the instrument cluster on >> the >>    > dash as is necessary to lower the brake fluid level below the hose >>    > entering the reservoir from the right. This way opening the hose at >>    > the slave cylinder will not drain the reservoir any more. >>    > >>    >6. To disconnect the hydraulic fitting at the end of the hose >> from the >>    > slave cylinder you need something to catch the hydraulic fluid >> still >>    > in the hose, as well as a 17mm box wrench, a piece of wood, and a >>    > hammer. Put the box wrench on the head of the hyraulic fitting in >>    > such a way that wrench and slave cylinder form a rather flat >>    > triangle, cylinder to the left, wrench to the right, and the >> head of >>    > the hydraulic bolt pointing towards you. Place this triangle on the >>    > piece of wood and then carefully hammer on the eye of the wrench, >>    > flattening the triangle even more and thus loosening the bolt of >> the >>    > hydraulic fitting. Be prepared to catch the brake fluid which now >>    > starts oozing out. Remove the hydraulic fitting altogether and make >>    > sure not to lose the two copper washers sitting on the hydraulic >> bolt >>    > on either side of the hydraulic eye. Drain the rest of the brake >>    > fluid from both, the hose and the slave cylinder (push the piston >>    > back manually). >>    > >>    > >>    >The Slave Cylinder Repair Kit >>    >----------------------------- >>    > >>    >The slave cylinder repair kit contains >>    > >>    > - a boot for the push rod >>    > >>    > - a main seal for the piston >>    > >>    > - a cap for the bleeding valve >>    > >>    > >>    > >>    >Repairing the Clutch Slave Cylinder >>    >----------------------------------- >>    > >>    >1. Place the slave cylinder in a vise, bleeding valve down. As >> you can >>    > see now, the piston is retained by a circular clip sitting in a >> grove >>    > in the slave cylinder. However, that's not the regular C-clip you >>    > can remove with the corresponding pliers. Rather use a small screw >>    > driver and a hammer and drive the screw driver between circlip and >>    > slave cylinder at the side oposite the gap in the circlip, at the >>    > same time pushing the piston slightly back with one finger of the >>    > hand holding the screw driver. This will push one side of the >>    > circlip down while the other end will go up allowing you now to >>    > easily remove the circlip. >>    > >>    >2. Next push the piston down the slave cylinder, close the >> opening for >>    > the hydraulic fitting with your thumb, and then suddenly remove the >>    > thumb so the piston will shoot up and half way out of the slave >>    > cylinder, where you now can easily pull it out altogether. Remove >>    > the spring from the rear end of the piston and then remove the old >>    > seal by simply using a srew driver and pulling the seal over the >> rear >>    > end of the piston (it's elastic enough). >>    > >>    >3. Dry the piston as well as the inside of the slave cylinder and >> then >>    > use finest emery-cloth to remove any residues from both, >> cylinder and >>    > piston. >>    > >>    >4. Next, pull the new seal over the rear end of the piston. Mind >> that >>    > the upper and lower edges of the seal have different outer >> diameters. >>    > The greater outer diameter points to the rear end of the piston, >>    > where the spring is attached. Put spring and piston back into the >>    > slave cylinder, push the piston down a little, and insert the >>    > circlip. >>    > >>    >5. Now turn the slave cylinder in the vise upside down, so that the >>    > bleeding valve is pointing upwards. Again apply some WD40, then use >>    > a 7mm wrench to screw the valve entirely out of the slave cylinder. >>    > Clean the valve, in particular the little hole near the pointed >> end, >>    > then reassemble the valve and close it tightly. >>    > >>    > >>    >Installing the Clutch Slave Cylinder >>    >------------------------------------ >>    > >>    >Basically undo all the steps you did before to remove the slave >> cylinder >>    >in reverse order. However, mind a few things: >>    > >>    > - Put one of the copper washers on the hydraulic bolt, then the >>    > hydraulic eye, then the other copper washer. Then screw the >>    > hydraulic fitting into the slave cylinder. To tighten the bolt, >>    > again form a flat triangle with the slave cylinder and a 17mm box >>    > wrench. This time, however, the box wrench is at the left side, >>    > the slave cylinder at the right, and the head of the hydraulic bolt >>    > is again facing you. The rubber boot should not yet be installed. >>    > Before you fasten the bolt by placing this triangle on a piece of >>    > wood and striking the eye of the wrench more or less gently with a >>    > hammer, make sure the orientaion of the hydraulic hose is roughly >>    > perpendicular to the slave cylinder and downward. >>    > >>    > - Top off the brake fluid reservoir in the instrument cluster and >>    > bleed the system. The bleeding valve is easily accessible now with >>    > the slave cylinder just hanging below the tranny, and you can also >>    > easily check for any leaks (if the slave cylinder is leaking at the >>    > hydraulic fitting you probably forgot to insert one of the two >>    > copper washers). >>    > >>    > - Install the rubber boot (but not yet the push rod) at the >> lower end >>    > of the slave cylinder and -- folding the rubber boot against the >>    > slave cylinder -- persuade the slave cylinder to go up above its >>    > mounting bracket again. Insert the rear bolt from below and screw >>    > on the nut a few turns only. Then insert the push rod between the >>    > clutch operating lever and the slave cylinder piston, press the >>    > slave cylinder down against its mounting bracket, insert the front >>    > bolt with its shaft pointing up, and screw on the nut. Fasten the >>    > front bolt from below using a 13mm socket on a long extension and a >>    > 13mm wrench to fix the bolt, then fasten the rear bolt from the >>    > engine bay using two 13mm wrenches. Place the rubber cap on the >>    > bleeding valve. >>    > >>    > - Pull the lower end of the rubber boot down the push rod until it >>    > sits in the small grove at the lower end of the rod. Attach the >>    > two clamps to the frame that are holding the flexible clutch hose. >>    > >>    > - Test the operation of the clutch: pull parking brake, put the >>    > tranny into first gear, step on both, the brake and the clutch >>    > pedal, and then start the engine. >> >> >


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