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Date:         Mon, 9 Mar 2009 13:08:14 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Manual trans replacement
Comments: To: Edward Duntz <eduntz@HOTMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-15";
              reply-type=original

about that pilot bearing in your waterboxer. Make sure the felt dust seal is present. there is a small metal ring pressed into the center of the flywheel that holds this felt seal in place. Many flywheels are missing this little metal ring, and thus have no pilot bearing felt dust seal, and that makes the pilot bearing go south in a couple of years or so.

other points that pop into mind - lube the cross shaft extra well where it pivots in the bell housing. I just move it back and forth a lot.......and spray spray spray a good synthetic lube into the bushing areas until it pivots very smoothly.

I'm sure you know to lube all the sliding and pivot points on the cross shaft/throw out bearing, and clutch guide tube. I use 'black slimey' moly grease for that.

I don't normally replace the transmission input shaft seal - they seem to last quite well, but I always have one on hand before starting job. Ditton the rear main seal.

funny how jobs can grow............you could check crankshaft end play while you're there. ( any what you'd think is a say 4 hour job, seems to turn into 6 hours, or more, by the time I address *everything* in the whole area, while I'm there. The age of our van's is a factor there........everything is at least 20 years old excpet for the normal replacement parts.

I always change the brake fluid in the clutch hydrualic fluid any time I work on the clutch. You can't change it too often, almost. At least every 2 years. Many vans never get their clutch hydruaulic fluid changed until a hydraulic cylinder fails. Changing the fluid proactively is better.

I don't get every last flywheel resurfaced on clutch jobs. I clean them up with black water proof sandpaper and spray carb cleaner....... and other times I get them resurfaced. Don't let the machine shop loose that little metal felt seal retainer ring....... that part is not avialable. They are all under the workbenches of machine shops around North America. ditto on the dowels that located the pressure plate.

The 'normal' pressure plate and disc to get , to me, that's cost effective and decent quality, is the Sachs original type, rebuilt in mexico.

you could check the starter bushing in the bell housing while things are apart. ( how jobs can grow ! )

it's easier to just remove the trans, than to remove the engine. Just leave the engine where it is, supported from below and/or above. Since you're doing a trans change mainly, I'm sure you are planning to do it that way.

and of course...........the CV joints, yet another thing that's easier to address while you are there ! I at least add grease to the ones I undo. The outher CV's need attention if it's been a long time, or course.

have fun ! Be safe. scott daniel foss www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward Duntz" <eduntz@HOTMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 10:26 AM Subject: Manual trans replacement

I'm finally ready to replace the manual trans in the '85 Westy. I got some advicea while back here and on the Samba a while back. My father has a friend with a garage and a lift and just sprung it on me today that we can use the garage tomorrow. So I didn't have time to get all that prepared. Specifically, I wasn't able to do more research to decide if I should do the clutch, too. It was replaced before I bought the van about 60K miles ago, but the pedal has always been harder to depress than my other Vanagon. The other recommendation was for me to replace the pilot bearing. I see Bus Depot lists a pilot/needle bearing, but also some kind of gasket as well. Any last minute advice?

Thanks, Ed in CT


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